Starter Help 2017 Accord

Maintenance/Repairs
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1

Hello, I am new to this forum and started an account for an issue i am having and hoping somebody here has an idea of whats going on. I can not describe how much i would appreciate guidance.

I replaced the starter in my 2017 Accord 2.4l CVT. Not with just one starter, but three different starters. I thought the first two were faulty and just swapped them out with the warranties.

When i turn the key to start, the starter ENGAGES but does not crank. I checked for voltage drop from the pos bat to the starter and there was almost no drop. I checked voltage from ground bat to starter, it read zero when cranking. The solenoid drops from 12 to zero when cranking.

I wired a jumper from the starter to the bat ground and it made no difference.

After 12 hours with a volt meter and google searches i cant wrap my head around this issue. This is my last attempt at figuring out what would cause the starter to ENGAGE but not crank.

Any help would be incredibly appreciated!

EDIT: The battery is new and strong. I did try to use a jumper to see if it was a battery issue, but the result was the same.

2

Have you checked if the engine can be turned by hand?

Tester

3

I have not, but i will now that you mention it.

If it helps, the vehicle has no codes. It was driven from the store to a local park. When attempting to leave the park the vehicle did not start. There were no signs or symptoms of failure.

4

I cranked the engine successfully by hand.

5

What’s the voltage reading on the battery when measuring post-to-post with the meter?

Tester

6

The battery reads 12.4ish. I left it charging for some time and tried again. Same result. I hooked it up to a jumper, the result was the same. When i try to start, i do not see any dimming of console lights or headlights.

7

But you can hear the starter drive engage the flex plate?

Tester

8

It is engaging loud and clear. I went under the car and confirmed that it is indeed engaging.

I tried to find any info as to what could possibly interupt the starting process, but i couldnt find any.

All the teeth look great, no chips or cracks. I tried different measures of disengaging the immobilizer, there was no indication it was on but i did it anyways, but no change.

9

I’m beginning to wonder if the flex plate is cracked.

Tester

10

I havent observed any of the symptoms. The car hasnt had any problems at all with exception to replacing the thermostat. Even the starter was running strong, well, until it just didnt start. This whole thing was out of left field, so to speak.

No vibrations, sluggishness, shifter issues, economy issues, nothing. This is truly a shocker

11

Set your voltmeter to ohms and check resistance from the battery negative to bare metal on the engine block. It should be nearly zero.

12

It shows close to zero ohms

13

This will occur if there is no battery power to the positive cable stud on the starter, but you checked that;

You performed this test while the ignition was in the crank position/solenoid engaged?

This is an unusual test result, did you have one test lead connected to battery positive and the other on the solenoid connector?

14

Yes. I performed the drop test during engagement.

The starter grounds to the body of the starter, and completes the circuit being bolted to the car. The starter consists of one main power lug and one single pin plug that is the signal wire.

I admit, its a very strange result and i should probably retest that part.

15

Was the old starter making any noise when you attempter to start the car? Did you have anyone with you to turn the key and see if there was a live feed to the starter?

It could be a neutral safety switch or whatever prevents you from starting in gear.

16

Car was at park with no start. Is home now? You have changed starter so I assume it is. You seem industrious. In doing obvious checks. Is it time for shop?

17

Make sure the voltage at both starter terminals (thick wire and thin wire) are at least 10.5 volts with key in “start”. Probe between terminal and starter case, everything plugged in. If the voltages check ok, and starter engages (you hear a click) but it doesn’t spin & crank engine, most likely each of those starters is bad. Not an unusual thing in my experience with aftermarket starters. Suggest to either buy a new replacement starter from a Honda dealership, or at least a rebuilt unit from a vendor who supplies Honda starter motors, Denso probably. Another idea, take the failed units to a shop that has a starter motor test fixture and ask they test it for you. Even some retail auto parts stores have one.

Also suggest to double check the starter p/n you are getting is correct. Does it exactly match the oem starter that came w/the car?