I have a 1998 Volvo V70 station wagon with 108,000 miles. Since October,2018 the vehicle has started stalling 1-3 times a day. The car starts fine from the home and stalls at any intersection around 1-2 miles later when the traffic is stopped at the red traffic light. Same thing happens when I head back home late afternoon. After the car stalls, I wait for the green light. I start the car, sometimes after 2 tries and works fine after that. The repair shop could not figure out the problem. The Volvo dealer people were not able to provide any help.
Is your Check Engine Light on? If so, what are the codes? The Volvo dealer probably checked them. If the CEL was (is) on, did they print the codes on your receipt? If you don’t have the codes, you can get them read at most chain auto parts stores.
One way to check for this is, when you feel that the engine is about to stall, with your left foot on the brake, slight step on the accelerator. if this prevents the engine from stalling, it points to the IAC valve as being the problem.
You might try cleaning the valve first. Because they’re not giving these away.
I have tried that approach.It doesn’t work.If I put the car in park at the red light, it stalls less often, compared to left foot on the break and pushing the accelerator.Usually, the car just loses power in spite of that.Something seems to be clogged somewhere.Also,I have a suspicion that the problem is worse on colder days.
Did you actually ask the Volvo dealer to fix this or just talk to them. I ask because they want to be paid for their time and the very expensive equipment they use. This should not be difficult to repair.
There’s quite a few things that might cause this symptom. Spark, fuel, idle control systems, internal engine problems, deferred routine maintenance, etc. If a Volvo dealership can’t figure it out what w/all the expertise and Volvo-specific test equipment they have, it must be a pretty tough diagnosis.
If I had that problem w/my Corolla and all the routine maintenance was up to date I’d pull over and test for spark when the symptom occurred. If it had good spark then I’d rig up a fuel pressure gauge so I could monitor it when I was driving. I’d also monitor the battery voltage. If the fuel pressure or battery voltage dropped coincident w/the symptom I’d have a big clue.
You might ask you dealership shop if they’d keep your car for a couple weeks and let one of their techs drive it as their daily. The tech would figure it out eventually.