Spark plugs need anti sieze ? Camry 2000-4cyl

I haven’t used it on plugs - just bolts…seems to be lots of disagreement…( 50/50)…also the dialectric grease…I know it keeps out moisture to some degree but does it allow current thru (such as in a brake or tail light bulb contacts. How about in the upper part of the spark plug tube ? thanks guys…is Tester, OK4450, Mountainbike and Hondadude still around ? Mike

If they’re platinum plugs anti seize isn’t required.


No need for antisieze work on Toyotas every day and dont even have any in my box. I do like putting a bit of dieletric grease on the boots, makes them easier to remove the next time you do plugs.

If the plugs are plated, then you do not need anti-seize. If they are not plated, then you do. If you are using Denso or NGK, I believe all of them are plated. If you are using Autolite or Champion, then I’d use the anti-seize unless the package specifically says not to.

A little dielectric grease on the rubber boot, inside and out will help to prevent external arcing, make future removal easier and extend the life of the spark plug wires. It will not hurt if the grease gets on the contacts, in thin film, the spark will fire right through the grease, but not in thick film.

Toyota plugs (NGK and Nippon-Denso are the OEM suppliers and you should stick with one of them) do not require antiseize, and I recommend against it. It messes up the torque readings.

Unfortunately, Ford in particular has a serious problem with spark plugs being unable to come out, and this has left lots of people afraid their plugs will bind, but Toyota has not had this problem. I’ve attached a link (one of many) on Ford’s problem.

I don’t think you’ll find consensus here either. I can tell you that I wouldn’t use any anti-seize when replacing the spark plugs. There was a guy working at this shop that insisted on using anti-seize on spark plugs, despite my repeated requests not to. I finally threw away the bottle.

Another poster here recommended that if using Autolite or Champion spark plugs anti-seize may be used, but why would you put the wrong spark plugs in your car?

Stick with the original equipment plugs and install them dry.

I quote from the article “He believes the spark plugs were a design flaw.”

I couldn’t agree more . . . because starting the next model year, the 3V Triton V8 used a different, more conventional, spark plug design. That pretty much says it all

Most believe the design flaw is in the heads and not the plugs. It’s hard to separate one from the other.

Sorry guys, I really couldn’t resist the chance for that really pathetic pun. I hope someone got a chuckle out of it. I did when I thought of it. {:smiley:


You’re onto something. With the old 2V Triton, the head’s lack of threads was definitely the root problem. Installing the timesert takes care of that

With the 3V Triton, you have 2 problems. The first is that carbon builds up, causing part of the plug to essentially become stuck

The second is that the plug is a retarded 2 piece design, that just won’t survive the forces required to remove it . . . unless you use that OTC 6918 tool I mentioned earlier. I can personally attest to its effectiveness. It isn’t perfect, but it dramatically reduces the number of plugs that break.
Used it a few weeks ago. 7 of 8 came out no problem. 1 broke. The Lisle tool took that out, no problem

The pun was so pathetic, it was funny!

Good job

I’ve read Fords TSB for removing plugs on these engines, and it’s easier to split atoms. It makes me crazy when the manufacturers deal with a problem by implementing a long drawn out protocol that might reduce the incidence of failure but doesn’t deal with the actual problem.

I recall on my '72 Vega, when rear axles started sliding out of their housings, Chevy published a recall to measure the axial play at the wheel. I had mine checked by two different dealer shops. I was concerned. Sure enough, eventually my axle came sliding out. The problem was never axle endplay, the problem was that the retainer clip that held the axle in (located in the carrier case), fell out. The retainer needed to be changed to a better design. The axial endplay check was a smokescreen. Total BS in my opinion.

“does [dielectric grease] allow current thru (such as in a brake or tail light bulb contacts.”

My understanding is that neither this (nor any other common grease) is electrically conductive. In fact, dielectric grease is specifically very non-conductive to prevent shorting. Normally, bulbs and 12V wiring harness plugs make electrical contact at only a few points and can easily push the grease aside at these points. The rest of the grease just keeps moisture and thus corrosion away.

To each their own, but I use anti-seize on everything although sparingly. Di-electric grease is always used on ignition components.
The last time I removed the 35k miles, lightly tightened plugs with anti-seize from my daughter’s Mustang I was sweating bullets on 3 of them as they were already galding to the heads. The remaining 3 were difficult but not as bad as the others.

Somewhat OT and to tie in with mountainbike’s comment about TSBs and protocol, I just received my new issue of Mopar Muscle and there’s a story in there about Chrysler’s ignorant policy on replacement of timing chains and/or damaged cylinder heads on Hemi Challengers with the MSD when it all comes unglued…
Moronic protocol in this case.

Old habits die hard and I don’t want my dear old dads spirit comming back to haunt me
He’ll start moving tools to other drawers on me!!!.

I have always done like he taught me and used a little white grease on any bulb outside the cab and exposed to the elements. Bulbs, electrical connectors, battery posts, trailer light plugs…everything except rotors and caps.

The grease only seals the plug from the elements including oxygen that would promote corrosion. I’ve never had a problem with the grease NOT allowing current to pass thru.

Di-electric grease is all fine and good, but I only use it on rotors, caps and plug wires.
I never knew it existed until a few years ago and I figure if White grease was good enough for the 40 years before that…it was good enough now.

Pretty soon someone will come up with bulb grease and you’ll have one more thing to buy.
It will be like the house shower soon. A soap for your hair and a soap for your back and a soap for your face. Hell your grandma had one soap for everything, now they are advertizing body soap for men. Be a real man and get that boraxo and lava soap working, and if Dawn removes grease from the dishes…it’ll do wonders for your greasy hair. I’ve been using Dawn on my hair for over 20 years and I’ve got a full head of hair.

I, like @ok4450, I use anti seize quite a bit. I put a light coat on all spark plug threads, and any bolt that I feel I may want or need to remove again within the life of the car. Thermostat bolts, hitch balls, wheel studs, brake caliper bolts, star wheels on drum brakes, my thong…



You don’t apply any lubricant to wheel studs.

These are dry torque fasteners.

Ever see any lubricant on the wheel studs from the factory?


insightful, there is a difference between sparkplug voltage and light bulb voltage. Every dielectric, whether grease, oil, ceramic or plastic has a breakdown potential and when that is exceeded, it will arc through.

The breakdown potential is measured in volts per inch/mm thickness, so a glob of dielectric grease will need a much higher voltage to punch through an inch thick section than through a section measured in microns. When the dielectric grease is thin enough, it will ionize and become conductive.

Good catch, kieth. I meant 12V wiring harness plugs (not sparkplugs). I’ve edited my previous comment to clarify.

Yosemite, they already sell bulb grease.
By the way, it works great for those stubborn lightbulbs in the house as well as automobile connectors and bulbs. I always keep a packet handy.

Man…I missed another shot at getting rich. I keep waiting for my ship to come in. Maybe I should stop waiting at the airport.


Airport? So THAT’S what I’ve been doing wrong!!!

Great chewin’ the fat with you guys…now …where do I find Lightbulb grease.? Speaking of grease…I was wondering why the accuracy of the torque (even without the torque wrench, when we use our “feel” ) was in question when using grease…I would think that using no grease would make it innacurate (as the bolt binds with rusty surfaces)…except for lug nuts…So Tester…No antisieze in my lug nuts ? (…each side of the car? France and Italy? )…Mike