SONATA GLS 2011 95,000 miles Seems to be Burning Oil

TESTER: Checked the break-in procedure and definitely followed it…always keep RPM at about 2000-2500, went variable speeds, and other recommendations. Manual also says “no special break-in period is needed”. I did the procedures for first 1000 miles and manual says 600 miles.
SO THAT IS NOT THE CAUSE OF PROBLEM, APPARENTLY.

@Andyport

Did you really mean to write, “I HAVE KEPT TRACK OF MILEAGE WHILE CHECKING OIL…Went down 3/4 qt. in 280 miles.” ?

I’d see if your vehicle fits the RECALL vehicle parameters (probably after October). It certainly seems your vehicle would qualify for a new engine and the extended warranty.

After all, the purpose of the recall is to keep vehicles from becoming a danger to drivers and to keep customers from avoiding the purchase of Hyundai vehicles. They want to be a company that stands behind their products.

Manufacturer is blaming U.S. assembly line folks, but is that the entire cause of oil consumption complaints? Who can say for certain? It sounds like a good culprit because it seems more forgivable and more easily corrected than engineering shortfalls.

Anyhow, have the dealer set you up for a consumption test. If you run into problems getting an engine, you can set a meeting with a zone representative and I’m sure calling the corporate office would yield a response.

CSA

This is one reason I am a big fan of synthetic oils. They tend to resist coking and sludging on engines that are prone to sludge and stuck rings. I understand that some of the engines in the past that were known for sludge problems did fine on synthetic oil or with owners who changed the oil more often than specified in the manuals. The Toyotas were that way. It wasn’t a bad engine design. It was bad specification in the manual for the oil type and/or change interval.

What type of oil did you run and how long did you run it? 3/4 quart in 280 miles is a problem. This is an oil burner and not within spec. Wait until Nov 5th when the recall comes out and see if you need a replacement engine, then proceed from there. Keep adding oil in the meantime.

I have a friend and his wife used to drive a Camry. I believe it was a 2007. Whichever one it was is the one know for excessive oil usage. She wasn’t very good about checking the oil. She would tell her husband when the oil light would come on and he would add oil. He told her to be better about this but obviously she wasn’t. The oil change place commented to her one time that there was barely any oil in the pan when they drained it. This car finally started getting compression issues and leaky seals from the excessive blowby. I think the end was near and they got rid of the car.

I’m not in favor of flogging an engine in the first 500 or 1000 mile of its life but honestly, an engine is broken in within 5 miles of new.

I have also heard that you want some short quick bursts of acceleration during break in. One of the techniques I have heard is putting it in a lower gear and leaving it there. You accelerate and let off, letting the engine braking slow the car down in gear. I forget what the engine braking is supposed to do but I think this somehow sucks out any wear metals that might be present in the engine. I have done this on a couple oil burners in an attempt to free sticky rings and it sometimes work. Might be worth a try with this engine but with people describing rings that can’t be chiseled loose, it might also not do anything productive.

My philosophy has always been to break the engine in the same way I’m going to drive it. And I’ve never worn an engine out, or even had a problem that required removal of the head, even after hundreds of thousands of miles… so it must be working.

Manufacturers will say anything they can to get out of fixing things on their dime.

It’s normal.

How many times do we hear posters say that’s what the dealer told them when they pointed out something anomalous?

So let’s assume all factors combined produce a Gaussian distribution for oil consumption across production volumes of a particular car. Naturally, there will be those engines that run in the outlier regions and consume way more oil than others.

Perhaps they should be telling people-

It’s normal (distribution, you just happen to be stuck with one 3 standard deviations to the left!) :wink:

Or perhaps they should be tightening up their production tolerances and narrowing the distribution…

From what I understand, some engines have a much larger percentage of oil burners than others. That means it’s controllable.

How about this? http://www.cartalk.com/blogs/car-talk-car-complaints/turd-week-2011-hyundai-sonata

CWATKIN: Thank you for the link. No info sent by Hyundai on this issue. I have neither of the two signs listed in the Recall Announcement: metallic noise, check engine light on. It seems I am lucky I have not “seized” uptake engine. Have driven many highway miles.
My VIN was affected so I will call dealer. I have 4000 miles left on engine train warranty if they give me any grief. Since it’s recall I hope I am covered.

I Also was wary of buying car first year of new model but it had such outstanding reviews and except for oil usage, no complaints or repairs in 96,000 miles…never know it was such a big risk until Car Talk community enlightened me.

Common Sense: I would sell the car but any savvy buyer will know about this oil issue. I would have sold it unknowingly but really wanted to keep it…except oil usage. Maybe now I will have to keep it. If I get new engine will not be a bad deal…

@Andyport

Considering that your VIN is listed, I would fight tooth and nail for that new engine

Tell Hyundai that your engine oil consumption has skyrocketed in the past few weeks. The usage you mentioned earlier is astronomical and absolutely unacceptable. Indicative of major engine problems, in my opinion

If the dealership brushes you off, escalate it to the next level. That would be the regional manager, I believe

Given the very high oil consumption that you’ve recently developed, I wouldn’t want to be using your current engine very much longer. Time for a new one

Do not give up . . . that’s what Hyundai probably hopes you will do

Let’s go back to time zero; the original question was about oil consumption of one quart every 1500 miles on an engine with 95,000 miles that was running perfectly.

I know that there’s been a great deal of disagreement on whether that indicates a problem, and both sides are represented by knowledgeable people, but if it were my car I’d continue monitoring the oil level, add a quart every 1500 miles and drive on happy in the knowledge that I had a reliable car that runs well.

I’ve had vehicles that used that much oil after accumulating a lot of mileage, and never pulled the engine on one… and none has ever failed me. The vehicles ended up replaced for other reasons. An engine doesn’t have to be perfect to be good.

NOTE: my statement does not apply to new engines. On a new engine, a quart every 1500 miles is indicative of a problem. Or a German brand. But the OP’s engine isn’t new. Or German.

Later on OP clarified and seemed to say oil consumption was very high

“I HAVE KEPT TRACK OF MILEAGE WHILE CHECKING OIL…Went down 3/4 qt. in 280 miles.”

That’s outrageous oil consumption

There are several manufacturers that consider usage of up to 1qt/600 miles to be normal

It has be at that level, or worse, to qualify for a new engine under powertrain warranty

It seems OP’s engine even meets those ridiculous standards

It seems to me OP’s engine should be replaced, free of charge to him

Either under the recall

Or under the remaining powertrain warranty

I admittedly didn’t read through the entire current thread before posting, it having grown so profoundly. Mea culpa.

3/4 of a quart in 280 miles is definitely a problem. Ok4450’s admonishments about the oil rings sticking in the lands is a very good possibility. Unless, of course, there’s some extenuating circumstance, like having seriously overheated the engine or having allowed it to run dry of oil.

I get the sense that OP has been pretty good about maintaining the vehicle correctly

And I also sense that he’s not a hotheaded driver

I might be wrong, but that’s my gut feeling

:fearful:

Hey @BillRussell

Or perhaps they should be tightening up their production tolerances and narrowing the distribution....

Yes, that would be the ultimate solution. However, you can bet the price would go up across the board for the improved tolerancing required to ensure that no engine “eats oil”. Right now it’s a gamble and the vast majority of people are not victims of the outliers. Would you pay more to ensure you’re not a victim? :wink: I’m not sure I would because I’ve never been burned…

From what I understand, some engines have a much larger percentage of oil burners than others. That means it's controllable.

Well, everything is controllable for the right kind of investment. No business can afford to eliminate all risk. Some design issues are bound to escape the design reviews and testing. Some may even be a result of a particular type of vehicle, attracting a particular kind of customer that uncovers the weakness in the design or their lack of maintenance that leads to coking of the rings for example.

Here’s another thought- imagine an engine assembly line where they hire some contract workers to do the piston assembly and they goof up the orientation of the rings. (You mean there’s a top side??) Nobody catches the error until many engines are already in the field and starting to look like a trend in oil burning. Not that that could ever happen… :wink:

having to pry or tap those stuck oil control rings out of their ring lands.

You mean grooves, right? The ring lands are the areas to either side of the groove.

It’s weird because when you’re talking about O-rings, the recessed area they sit in is called a gland whereas a piston ring sits in a groove and the raised sections between them are called the lands…