A buddy and I were trying to replace his right front wheel hub, on his 2008 Chevy Impala LTZ. He described the engine size as 3900, I would think that means 3.9 liter, although I didn’t know there is a 3.9, I only know of the 3.8 liter and 3,1 Liter. One of the mounting bolts is so tight that the socket would not keep a grip on the bolt head, no matter how hard we tried to force the socket onto the bolt head. We had tapped on it as best we could with a hammer and metal rod, we heated the area with a torch, no luck. Of course, very little access to this bolt head, so impossible to use an impact hammer. The extra leverage of a breaker bar made no difference, the socket just kept slipping off the bolt head, no matter how hard we tried to push the socket against the bolt head. My buddy saw a hack online about gripping the bolthead with a small piece of latex rubber, like from a balloon. But how would a professional deal with this? Actually, it has been several months now since we attempted this, and so I don’t remember if we would have had room in front of the hub to get my oxycetylene torch cutter in there to blow out the seized bolt, and without doing fatal damage to something.
I have a set of Bolt-Out sockets.
You tap the socket onto the head of the bolt, and as you loosen the bolt the flutes in the socket grip the bolt head tighter the more you turn.
Tester
I think the suspension bolts use metric sockets and wrenches. Are you using metric?
We used the metric socket that fit perfectly
That would be our special tool of choice, but we would have to try and pry it on, it’s worth a try, thanks!
This is confusing.
That sounds like you’re using the wrong size socket (too small).
While this sounds like you rounded the thing off in which case you next try the type of tool Tester posted and get a new bolt - if you can manage to get the old one out.
Note that sometimes it pays to play back and forth between metric and SAE. E.g., I have some 21mm lug nuts that I prefer to use a 13/16" on - the 13/16" fits more tightly (though real-world variations might mean that doesn’t always work). Same with 10mm vs 3/8" - or any of the other things. If I’m working on metrics and don’t like the amount of play the metric gives, I’ll move to trying to closest SAE size. For tough fasteners, also best to use 6-point rather than 12pt sockets.
You can always just remove the steering knuckle to have more access to the bolt, then just use an impact driver, the force of you hitting the driver with a hammer will keep the socket on tight…
Is this the 13mm bolt on top of the axle? If so, that’s tight quarters between the axle and the bottom of the strut. I don’t think the bolt is too tight, I think the socket isn’t seating fully on the bolt head. Make sure you’re using a short socket and use a 3/8" breaker bar with a small head. You mentioned you’re using a breaker bar, but is it a 1/2" breaker? That space is too tight for most ratchet heads and 1/2" breaker bars because they hit on top of the axle causing the socket to not seat completely on the bolt head.
No offense intended . . .
Any chance the socket you’re using is worn out and in fact is no longer 13mm, but maybe 13.5mm by now?
It happens and it does make a difference
show a picture of the socket you’re using. The working end.
More info-We were using a 6 point not 12 point socket that fit properly. We had all the wrench leverage we needed but could not keep the socket from slipping off the bolt head even though the head had not been rounded off, at first anyway. Although my buddy said that after a while, the head did start to get rounded off. We are now thinking that we should try to loosen the strut mounting onto the knuckle to try for more bolthead access, when we would have another go at it…
I don’t remember if my breaker bar was contacting the area on top of the axle near the bolthead, I don’t remember if it was the 1/2" or 3/8" breaker bar we used, but back then last year, I think we made sure that wasn’t happening, but now I think we should have another go at it and make sure our wrench isn’t rubbing on top of the axle. Your mention of this possibly happening makes sense, thanks for pointing this out to me!
A 6 point 3/8" drive metric socket with no wear that fit tight, no looseage. Not sure now what size it was, this was last year, probably 13mm as indicated by rainflurry here…
6 point usually does not “Slip”.
You don’t pry it on, you drive it on with a hammer.
Was it a cheap socket that expanded as you torqued it?
or possibly cracked.
No room at all for driving on with a hammer
Solid socket
