"shuttering" feeling at 1.8 rpm

Hello All,

i have a '99 Honda Accord 4-cylinder. In the past two months I have been experiencing a “shuttering” feeling upon accelerating from a stop. I brought it into the dealer and they replaced the EGR valve and spark plug wires. It worked for about two days and then the same problem returned. They didn’t want to take a look at it again since the "check -engine " light wasn’t on, but they eventually did. They then replaced the “fuel pressure regulator kit” since they believed it was the culprit and Honda had come out with a new one a few years ago. It worked once again for a couple of days but now the same problem is back. I am hesitant to bring it back to the dealer since i’ve already spent a ton with no avail. Any suggestions?

You may want to adjust your idle speed from 1.8 to something like 800 rpm to eliminate the “shuddering”.

will that just cause “shuddering” at 800rpm though?? thanks for your help…

What do you mean by 1.8 rpm? Surely, your engine is not turning less than 2 revolutions per minute. Normal idle speed is closer to 800 rpm. So, at what rpm point is the shuddering occuring?

Does the engine exhibit any other driveability issues at any other speed?

It’s hard to isolate shuddering that is caused by an engine miss from those caused by a transmission issue from a distance. Have they ruled out a transmission problem like a sticking torque converter clutch?

Does it shudder every time? What if you start out in a lower gear, drive for a bit keeping it in 2 for example, stop and then does it still shudder when taking off in 2?

Did they test the fuel pressure? What was the reading?

How long has this problem been occuring? How did it run prior? Any work done just prior to the problem?

Blast this format, I just got out and saw you said it has been occuring for 2 months. Too bad we can’t see anything when typing in this reply box.

Just a thought, but maybe an engine mount bushing is worn out and not damping the engine’s motions as much. Could be that at 1800rpm (which I’m assuming you mean) the engine is vibrating in such a way that the vibration is transmitted through the vehicle. I suppose, actually, it doesn’t necessarily have to be an engine mount. Anything could be vibrating in sympathy with the engine, something that’s loose, maybe a suspension part, or tire.

Also, you say it’s been happening for 2 months. Are you sure that it only started 2 months ago, or did you just start noticing it 2 months ago? It could be as well, that this is common with Accords at a certain rpm and speed of acceleration, the vibrations cause something weird to happen.

Of course, if by ‘shuttering’ you mean it sounds/feels like the engine is struggling at that rev range, then all my previous ramblings are likely useless.

yeah, it happens at about 1800rpm. Upon replacing the EGR valve and the spark plug wires the problem went away for about 2 days. It then came back and occurred during every single acceleration. I then returned to the dealer and had the fuel pump regulator kit replaced. This seemd to work for a couple of days but now it is back. right now it occurs every other acceleration or so. The whole car doesn?t vibrate but it feels like the engine struggles as it approaches 1800rpm. And sometimes it also occurs when i?m going about 45mph and the engine runs at about 1800rpm. I don?t know too much about cars but the “shudder” feels like a car that is idling too fast and irregularly. Not sure if that makes sense. I don?t know what else i should have a look at…

yes, when i refer to the “shudder” i?m talking about the fact that the engine appears to struggle at that rpm range (1800rpm)…any other suggestions? don?t wanna bring it back to the dealer because i know they will give me a list of a million other things that need to be replaced…thanks for the help

The first thing I would check is the throttle position sensor. In most applications this is a variable resistor that provides the throttle position information to the engine management computer. They can develop bad spots in their travel and the result is, the computer can’t figure out where the throttle position is and it defaults to a table value that may cause driveability issues. The sensor can usually be checked using a resistance meter and moving it through its range while looking for dead spots.