The OP is hiding so we are just talking amongst ourselves as usual methinks
Hiding, or just thoroughly upset that so many people came out and said “Sorry, you messed up, now you gotta pay”.
Yeah something like that … LOL… You can sort of tell that they were NOT expecting our responses…
When this came up before, I was told I was wrong, but I still believe that I read in one of my service manuals that the light triggered at something like 6-7 psi. I was told here that no it doesn’t trigger till zero which doesn’t make much sense to me. A sensor can be easily designed to trigger at low psi instead of zero. I still remain unconvinced that’s not the case but I’m not going to go look for it. In that case there would still be some pressure when the light went on to allow getting the car stopped.
That’s the way it was with my Olds in 74 anyway which is why they didn’t want me to buy the guage package. Said that I would see the light but not likely the guage if there was a problem. When you buy the oil pressure sensor, you have to specify whether its for guage or not so I believe the sensor is installed at the same point. One just reads varible voltage and the other yes/no at some specified voltage/psi (6 psi or zero whatever).
Like I said I’ve never had an oil pressure failure in over a million miles and engines over 500K with the original pump. So I have to think that the light going off is usually either a sensor or lack of maintenance.
Sure its all up to the sensor the sending unit…If I stall out my manual shift vehicles the oil light will come on as designed…and I gues it does come on when there is ZERO pressure… But if a different manufacturer wanted it to come on at a set…low psi…they can do that no problem… They would just change the sending unit.
I am or have been under the impression that the idiot light comes on at ZERO psi…meself… Maybe I’m wrong, but I respond to it as tho it were zero…as all others should
If you want an oil pressure gauge AND light, you have to install a tee so that you can use both sending units.
As far as I know, most oil pressure sending units close at very low pressures of around 4 to 5 PSI. That’s enough to kill the light but not necessarily enough to protect an engine.
Personally, I prefer an oil pressure gauge but I don’t know that adding a gauge would cure the basic problem.
Drivers will motor on with the red oil pressure light on, a temperature gauge pegged out on BBQ, or with one of an assortment of ailments and noises so I see no reason why they would heed an oil pressure gauge.
I drove my Lincoln last night and noted it has a slight pull to the left now no matter the road crown. Tire pressure is fine and when I asked my wife how long the car has had that pull she stated that she’s never noticed it “because that kind of stuff is a guy thing”. Lord. 
LOL…true true true… I guess we are the type of folk that will ever care about such things as Oil pressure lights.
My Ford Explorer has an oil pressure gauge, but Ford did something very sneaky. The gauge is not really a gauge at all. The needle only will go to the middle position if there is sufficient oil pressure from the sending unit. Basically, the ‘gauge’ is really a needle equivalent of the red light. The sender only reads if the pressure is above 6-7 PSI. The needle will only go to zero or middle of the dial. Very misleading and sneaky.
Knuckles–That is similar to the way that a lot of temperature gauges work nowadays.
Essentially, they have only 3 positions:
Pegged at the bottom when stone cold
Exactly in the middle when the engine is at normal operating temp or even quite a bit higher than normal operating temp
Pegged at the top when the engine has reached the point of overheating.
In other words, many of these modern temp gauges will not show a creeping needle if your engine begins to overheat, and will only tell you when the engine has reached critical overheat stage. Just as your Explorer’s oil pressure gauge will not alert you to oil pressure that is lower than it should be until it gets to almost zero, it is very possible that your temp gauge is similarly a “too late to prevent damage” device.
Some people may despise the complexity of added electronics on a vehicle, but I like the “EVIC” on my newer vehicle. I can bring up a digital readout of oil pressure, oil temperature, coolant temp, battery voltage, tire pressures, and other items. I like to leave it on oil pressure or oil temperature. The car also has an analog (analog looking anyway) temp gauge that is pretty linear with the digital offering. The oil temp gauge is kind of handy for knowing when the car is warmed up enough to safely drive more ‘spirited’
With it being an 06, and the OP owning the vehicle for 3+ years, I’m going to assume that they bought it as a lease return.
A couple regulars on here know people who lease a vehicle and will never change the oil in the 20k miles they own it for; they only change it right before they trade the vehicle in. If this is the case, and even if the OP has been dilligent with oil changes, a problem like this could still occur. With only 79k miles on the car, this will be the theory I stick to unless the OP states otherwise.
The OP signed off around post #5…This is post #53…The first post begs for a flame job…When that result is achieved, the OP’s second (and last) post fills in the details deflecting much of the criticism and then signs off…
When I read the opening post, I anticipated much of the criticism that followed. Of course, they were claimed to not be criticism, but Educationism.
I know it’s difficult for most people here who believe someone should know better, but I think people should take it easy on the ‘first timers’ here, especially when it’s obvious that they need help.
We can educate people without pointing out how stupid we think they acted.
Just my 2 cents.
Happy New Year!!
For the record, a number of tests show that a typical car engine when driven without any oil or filter changes will seize up at around 60,000 miles or so when using normal, non-long life oils. A sludging type engine will do that a lot sooner.
Thus, if OP bought a car coming off a lease, the damage could already have occured when it was bought. I’ve bought a number of used cars over the years and I always stick my finger into the oil filler opening and touch the inside valve cover. If there is any excess crud or sludge, I’ll pass on that car. A well maintained car may have a thin layer of black oil.
Agree that OP was probably scared off by the panel bringing out the raw truth. I used to administer warranty claims for a marine engine manufacturer. One of the toughest tasks was determining abuse of the product, and then tactfully explaining to the owner why the warranty, if any was VOID!
LOL…Docnick…I mentioned the same exact thing…many many posts ago… lol I think you may have it right there my man. Possible that this oil in the engine was the second oil ever to go in the motor? Or the original engine oil with frequent “top offs” bet this is the case… But we will never know whats what… It could be exactly as we suspect.
At any rate those 3 miles with an oil light would do in even a well maintained vehicle right?