at 1000 rpm runs very rough but does not die. Also when I hit 50 mph or aprox 4000 rpm runs rough and whole car shakes. Got a P1300 code, replaced plugs, checked wires and cap all ok. any chance this is a bad fuel, air/fuel issue or something else???
What gear are you in when the engine is turning over at 4k RPM at 50 mph?
I ask because, in addition to your more obvious idle problem, you could have a failing transmission or a slipping clutch–depending upon whether the car has an automatic trans or a manual trans.
If you are in “top gear”, your engine should be turning over at no more than 2,800 RPM at 50 mph on a level roadway.
How did you check the wires and cap? You generally can’t just look at them and tell that they are good. If they are a few years old, then you probably should replace them before looking elsewhere.
I would think that a mixture issue would throw some more codes. I suppose it could be a cam/crank-shaft sensor issue too.
#1 cause of misfires in these engines is that the valves go out of adjustment. Have you have the valves checked within the last 30k miles or so? You may know about the valve issues, because you say you have 220k miles on it, so someone has probably kept the valves in adjustment. But if not, don’t risk ruining your engine.
Another possibility is a bad igniter/coil. These can be damaged internally if someone mistakenly cranks the engine with the spark plug wires disconnected.
manual transmission-reaches 4000rpm just before kicking into 4th gear (always has). currently on 3rd transmission do not intend to put in a 4th.
believe it or not 220k and never had valves looked at, never had an issue until 3 days ago when temp dropped in Indiana to 10 degrees. I am a woman with no knowledge of cars period, but, want to protect myself from being taken advantage of by mechanics.
my brother/mechanic did the plugs and wires, but, was at a loss after that due to Japanese built vehicle (actually built in Japan). when checking message boards a fellow cr-v owner explained he had same code (p1300) and after much work found that it was a leaking exhaust system gasket causing wrong air mixture, but, want to cover all bases.
OK, this is a classic symptom of valves out of adjustment. The valves in the engine get too tight, can’t open properly, and so the engine runs rough. When temperature drops, metal shrinks, and valves get even tighter. If this is a valve problem, as I suspect, it’s serious and can ruin your engine. Take this to a Honda dealer immediately, tell them what’s happening, that you’ve never had the valves adjusted, and that you were told it could be a valve adjustment problem. Do it right away because you’re in danger of serious, expensive engine damage.
thank you very much for your input!!
You’re welcome, from one CR-V owner to another! By the way, there are a couple of Honda CR-V forums on the web. I suggest you join and post future questions there. The people there know CR-V’s and you’ll benefit from cumulative years of CR-V owners’ knowledge. One is www.hondasuv.com.
The first step when an engine performance problem exists is to always run a compression test. The spark plugs are generally the first thing looked at so check the compression while they’re removed.
Valve lash inspections should be done every 30k miles and if this problem is due to a tight valve it will show up on the compression test.
Question. Why in the world is this vehicle on its 3rd transmission already? Installing used units from a salvage yard or what?
Manual - but it kicks into 4th itself? That’s a fancy manual