my honda 01 crv engine light is on and idles rough when coming to a stop. changed idle control valve, wires, plugs, distrb. cap, pcv valve. honda dealer says need to put on all honda parts(plugs wires ect.)$300. what shuld i do?
Have you changed those things? If you have is it still behaving the same?
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Why did you change the idle air control (iac) valve? If several cylinders were misfiring, you might change the iac; not, for one, usually. Of course, the Honda dealer would want to sell you Honda branded parts! Don’t. The #1 cylinder may be defective. Do a compression check on #1 to find out. Check the spark on #1 with an adjustable gap spark tester (or, a clamp-on type spark plug tester, if you wish). If you have another known-good spark plug wire, use it on #1. Let Auto Zone, or other auto parts store, clear the code, make three trips somewhere, have the scan done for a PENDING code (or, if the light is on, a set code). Then, come back here.
Hello, I have the same problem with my crv also. I was wondering if you got the rough idle fixed and what you did to get it done. Thank you.
One cylinder could have low compression. Have a compression test done.
Maybe one fuel injector is not working. Feel each of them while the engine is running and/or listen to each with a stethoscope or a dowel or something. One may feel or sound less snappy than the rest. This happened on my 99 Civic EX. The weak injector started working just fine after I tapped on it with a screwdriver handle. Someone told me of this trick while I was at a parts house getting a quote for a new injector. There could also be an electrical connection problem at an injector. I put in a can Sea Foam or some other fuel system cleaner. The problem has not recurred.
my crv idles rough also but it does it only in park or neutral. when i start the car, the idle bounces between 1500 and 2000rpm constantly. when in drive, the idle is at 1500 and wont come down any lower (even with a warm motor). the check engine stays on and when in park, same problem with the idle bouncing up and down. the guy at autozone did a check on it and he said that it was the idle control valve. i replaced the icv ($200 from honda), but the same problem remains…anyone with any insight, please help!!!
Flint Mica, Check the intake manifold , vacuum hoses, pcv, brake booster hose for vacuum leaks. /// You need to start you own post for more direct responses. //// If the misfire is coded to one cylinder, you can swap parts (fuel injectors, coil on plugs) to see if the misfire changes cylinders. If it does, the part which was switched is defective. If the misfire stays put, the cylinder could be leaking vacuum, or have inadequate compression.
The CEL is on. Get the codes read before doing anything. The code will at least point you to the solution, if not provide it outright. Post the code here for a proper interpretation. You probably replaced the IAC needlessly.
A bouncing RPM usually means vacuum leak somewhere. The code is probably for the computer unable to maintain the correct RPM. Sometimes due to a bad IAC, but not always.
I had my car towed to honda because my fuel injector seals broke and i had fuel coming out of the front end of the car.then honda said my check engine light is still on, so the next step would be to replace plugs, wires ect. w/honda parts.( I declined, and my car is now in the repair shop (not hondas)the shop has had the car 2-days and haven’t found the problem…I will print this information and give it to them…hope it will help… thank you