Replaced fuel pump and filter on 2001 Nissan Quest still won't start!

Replaced fuel pump and filter on our 2001 Nissan Quest. It started up for a few minutes but once it got hot it sputtered out. We sprayed some starter fluid in it. Still nothing.

Any suggestions please we have no clue what it could be now.

It’s only 1:18. Be patient.

Are you sure the the fuel pump and filter were the original problem you needed to fix?

If it did nothing with the starting fluid, I’d look at something to do with spark.

Did all the wiring get hooked back up correctly?

Yes they were. It did start with a spray of starter fluid but it went back out after it was put in reverse or drive.

It seems like after it heats up, it shuts back off then after a few minutes it will start briefly then go back out

The stalling might be caused from a bad crankshaft position sensor being effected by heat.

If the computer loses the signal from the crank sensor, the computer see’s no reason to operate the fuel and ignition systems so the engine shuts off.


If I understand correctly, It didn’t run, so you replaced the fuel pump and filter. Then it only ran briefly with starting fluid. How did you test the original pump? How have you tested the new pump?

A mechanic told us the pump and filter were bad.

The rpm hand is still moving when we attempt to start it. If it does come on it stays on for a min then sputters out

Idk if it does have something to do with the heat bc when the car started this morning it sounded fine but after it got hot. No response

I think @Tester has a valid point. A mechanic may have been wrong.

MG McAnick how do u test the crankshaft position sensor?

I’m going with @tester also.

You can check the resistance, but I don’t know what the specs are. 800 ohms would probably be an acceptable value for most crankshaft position sensors, for example

However, these sensors tend to fail when hot. So if it has 800 ohms at 72 degrees, it might shoot up to infinity . . . aka open circuit . . . at 80 degrees

You could also check the signal voltage while cranking, but I don’t have the specs. It could even be an ac signal voltage, as opposed to dc

Depending on how easy it is to get to it, the easiest thing might be to just replace it, based on the symptoms. It’s probably less than $50 . . . for the part, that is