Repairs after Outback was rammed by out of control driver

So, they are going the repair route, rather than considering it a total loss?
:palm_tree: :sunglasses: :palm_tree:

so we did get to choose a body shop and it’s one that is warrantied by our insurance company. I’m not worried about that. What I’m asking is, knowing that both wheels got rammed and I don’t know the force but I do know it was enough to push my car up against the curb and I did see how much damage the car in front of ours sustained-so much that it was pushed 4-6 ft forward up against the car in front of it, that I wonder if there could be something mechanical that the body shop might miss that could impair safety. It’s the fact that the car doesn’t look like it sustained that much damage, but did take a hit to the wheels, that worries me. I really want to know what to double check that the mechanic needs to look at.
If I sound neurotic, it’s because that accident on the NJ tpke was a head on collision, a miracle that my friend and I survived, but an awful memory. Thanks again for your help.

A good collision repair shop will address these items for you, presumably.

My elder daughter’s just recently had an SUV to jump from a stop-sign in the front of her Mazda3, while she was on a main road and speed was around 25 MPH at impact.

100% not her fault, but I strongly advised her not to let the faulty side insurance to work on repairs and to go with her own insurance, her own shop (I knew one which makes fantastic job) and to rely on subrogation to recover her deductible.

Initial estimate was $2000 or so, then the shop discovered that cooling system was damaged beyond repair, off it went with AC system too, then some here and there as they were working their way through the damage. By the time all dust settled, they were around $5000 into it.
IMHO if they knew that from the start, insurance would condemn the car, but repair is very nicely made and I’m not at all worrying about safety, as all was done by the book.

I’d be sure that the approved estimate the shop is working from includes a 4-wheel wheel alignment. A wheel alignment done by a reputable shop (with modern alignment equipment) should show suspension/steering damage that could be over-looked by a visual inspection, should any such damage exist.

It will not be possible to complete a proper alignment if any bent suspension/steering components are present. Insurance will authorize “additional” repairs if that is the case.

If it aligns okay without needing the additional work then I doubt it took a big hit to wheels/curb. Anyhow, that remains to be checked and discovered.
:palm_tree: :sunglasses: :palm_tree:

A proper shop will inspect all of the suspension and steering related parts. They also should check for body distortion (there are specific locations to measure between), or send it to a place that specializes in body/frame alignment. If the front pillar (where the door attaches) was damaged, or damaged severely, it may require cutting out and replacement - to maintain adequate strength for surviving the next crash this must be done with proper reinforcement where new and old sections meet. Talk to the shop about this, even ask for pictures documenting critical steps of the repair (my shop explained precisely how they do this and invited me in at these times).

Have them check the transmission for damage that might have been caused by the half shafts being rammed into it. This might not be obvious until months after it’s back on the road, but if the half shafts were damaged be on the look out for it. Insurance is still on the hook should this be discovered later.

Don’t accept a “fair” condition rating if you feel it rates better, ask the body shop for their opinion and call the adjuster on it and make him justify a low assessment.

At least in some states, if the car is beyond a specified age, or possibly mileage, the insurance company can specify remanufactured, aftermarket, or good used parts if they’re available, otherwise they default to new. This can be okay if they’re comparable to the no longer new parts they’re replacing, like sheet metal and bumper covers, or a door, but you can push back on items where damage might be difficult to detect - I wouldn’t go for anything but Subaru metallic suspension parts (spindles, control aims, etc.), except for wear out items like springs, struts and rubber bushings where you can get better than original. Used wheels that run true and aren’t deeply scratched or gouged probably are okay. Damaged tires, or even those known to be hit (there might be hidden damage) should be replaced with ones that match the exact model and amount of wear of the remaining good tires, such that the circumference of all tires fall within 0.25in. (one-quarter inch). Note: this spec. is tighter for Subarus than many other AWD vehicles, tires that are too far off will cause premature wear of the center coupling system (differential, viscous coupler, …). New tire treads can be shaved to match worn tires, but If the remaining tires can’t be matched or are too far worn replace all with new even if you can’t get insurance to pay full fare.

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Thanks, Ken! They didn’t really mention the tires until I asked. They said they’d look at them.

I don’t believe that there any benefit in having a group of people look at a tire. A light collision like this won’t cause damage to the tires, if the body shop is able to bill the insurance company for a set of tires they are fleecing the insurance company.