this is for older accords but it might give you some areas to look at.
Thanks. Iām going to crawl underneath one more time tomorrow and take another peak and check for loose things. Iāll definitely be sure to give those things a good look.
also check for any loose plastic panels
one last thing I can think of is check your exhaust is not hitting the bottom of your car. it could have a little play and when you go over a bump and goes up and hits the bottom of the car. sound does travel. good luck.
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My WAG, stabilizer link, nothing much to worry about at this point, my thought.
Edit, wrong thread, oops
The shop is losing money charging you $27 for inspecting the vehicle on the lift. Whether the cause of the problem is discovered or not is irrelevant. Most shops need to recoup on the order of $100 per hour labor rate to make a profit. If they donāt make a profit, they wonāt be there the next time you need them.
Think about this as a cause & effect puzzle. When you stepped on the brakes hard, the front end of the car dipped markedly toward the road, and the rear end moved markedly upwards. So what could that sort of movement damage? The under-engine shield or the carās front-piece might have scraped the pavement; the exhaust system was inertia-stressed; especially in the 2-3 foot section just behind the engine, and in the muffler area. And most of the suspension systems bushings were stressed. So those are the areas to look. The brakes were also stressed, but less likely the cause b/c brakes are designed to handle this sort of stress. But if the above ideas donāt pan out, the brakes will have to be assessed, which may require the calipers and pads be completely disassembled.
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You might call around and find someone with a Chassis Ears setup. That could help sort it out.
However, you can expect to pay more than 27 dollars for having this done.
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Wag? What do you mean nothing to worry about? Everything might be safe yes, but the sound is quite annoying.
Reading thru the stringā¦ I have a few questions and a diagnosis
If you drive over a road with small ripple type bumps, does tne noise sound like a blocks of wood are bouncing around in the spare tire well?
If you are hearing a loose lumber type noise that is almost always created by a worn out mount between the shock or strut and the body.
The mount may look ok in the car but isnāt. If you open the trunk and pull back the upholstry so you can see the mount and then bounce the rear, you may see more movement on one mount than the other. If you do, Iād say there is your problem. Replace both because if a brake event failed one, the other is not far behind
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Blocks of wood bouncing around is a near perfect way to describe the sound, but I can confirm with certainty that it is coming from the driver side wheel and has nothing to do with the spare tire or anything else in the trunk. I had my friend drive over small ripples and I had the back seat down and my ear down inside the trunk. It is coming from the wheel area.
I did what you said just now actually and removed the upholstry in the trunk but there is nothing under there at all except the steel and of course the spare tire that sits within the steel. No tops of a mount or any other parts. My friend also bounced the car up and down while it was parked and I listened and you cannot hear the clunk. It is ONLY when the back drivers wheel gets movement and goes over a ripple/small bump.
I really donāt see how it can be anything other than strut/shock related at this point, do you?
I think you should put an audio recorder in the trunk on a blanket for padding to prevent it from making its own noise then drive around and see if it records the noise. Can you fold the rear seats down to better hear sounds from the trunk?
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Either you were looking in the wrong place or did not recognize the mount but here is the picture of the entire rear suspension. The mount is circled. The shock is removed, the mount is removed from the top of the shock and replaced.
I canāt guarantee this IS the noise, but I used to design suspension parts for a living for a Tier 1 auto parts supplier and ālooseā lumber noises were the bane of our existence. The mounts were very often the cause unless the shock absorber was leaking. Hondas use Showa shocks and they tend to last a very long time without leaking soooo. Yes I think this is pretty likely the problem.
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Even if I did miss it doesnāt really matter because my ear was on that steel part as the car was driven over ripples. The sound was not coming from anywhere within the trunk or the top of a mount. It was coming from underneath, outside the car, within the wheel area.
Wild A Guess, please disregard previous post, response was meant for a different noise thread.
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This doesnāt cost you money to check out. You might as well do it just in case
It wouldnāt be the first time any of us guessed wrong on the location of a noise. We had a rattle in our 2003 Silhouette minivan. The noise was behind the front row. I checked all over the inside of the van and couldnāt find anything loose. Then Christmas came and as we were putting the tree on the roof rack, I discovered that one of the cross rail bolts was loose. I tightened it and no more rattle.
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The wheel well liner is held in by plastic clips that sometimes break or come loose. see if it moves at all. I know its not likely but why not rule it out.
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the other thing I would do is lift the car off the ground about 2 inches. then stick a 2x4 or a pipe under the tire and lift the tire up and down to listen for the noise to see where it is coming from.
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Now that is a great idea. Wish I thought of that myself. Just not sure how I can get the car off the ground like that. I donāt think this would be safe to do with just a jack.
you can pick up jack stands at harbor freight pretty cheap.
3 ton Heavy Duty Ratcheting Jack Stands, Black (harborfreight.com)
I would not tell anyone to buy Jack Stands from Harbor freight . They had to recall A very large number of them .