Hello everyone - first time poster; thank you in advance for looking.
My 2006 Acura has been acting up after a collision repair. The first symptom was that my key fob stopped working, and I had to manually unlock the car. When I turned the ignition with the key, the radio was asking for the code and the clock was reset. Now, the more often symptom is that every time I start the car, it asks for the radio code and the clock is reset. The key fob works sometimes but not consistently.
I had the battery replaced a couple months ago and it was working fine for a couple months. Then, the collision happened and I had the repairs done at known trustworthy/honest shop. All of this began to occur after the repairs were completed. Repairs were rear-bumper replacement and surface repairs to rear quarter panel.
Thank you Tester - I will investigate the wiring around the battery. I’ve heard in other threads that this may also be a fuse issue? Also, assuming I find the culprit and have it repaired/replaced, do you think this will also fix the key fob inconsistency?
The radio gets its power from 2 fuses. One supplies constant power, the other only when the car is switched on. I would make sure the fuse that provides the constant power is not blown. It is likely a low amperage fuse, probably a 7.5 Amp
I took a look and everything looks good except for the positive battery terminal being somewhat loose (pictured). It wasn’t falling off, but I could easily “turn” it with my hand. The negative (black) terminal was very tight. Should I just try and crank the bolt a bit more to tighten it? Is there any safety concern with doing this?
I have the tools but they are in storage - I live in an apartment complex and none of my neighbors have tools. Not a big deal - I can dig it out of my storage or go down the road and get one.
I looked at some wiring diagrams for your car. They are quite cryptic. A couple of things that I gleened: Three fuses that are always hot are #8 20A #3 10A and #7 10A. Make sure those are good.
Lots of stuff in the dash and console grounds at Ground #503 behind the glove box so make sure that ground has a good connection.
If a bit of tightening the nut doesn’t help immobilize the clamp, loosen the nut and shove the clamp down further on the post, they’re typically wider at the bottom.
Thanks everyone - I’ve tightened the battery terminal nut and will update here if the car continues to experience the same issues. I’ve started it a few times and everything seems to be in order for now.
Update - after tightening the battery terminal, all is good. I’ve marked this as the solution in the thread. Thanks Tester and others for the suggestion.
