Hope I didn’t offend you.
If the fuel gauge level unit becomes disconnected, the body computer will set a fault and no longer update the instrument cluster display. A better technique would be to monitor the BCM data while moving the level unit up/down.
If I recall correctly; 20 ohms of resistance in the level unit is a full signal, 120 ohms is empty, grounding the level unit would send a full signal to the BCM.
The ground strap in the drawing, # 4 is a static ground for the fuel filter, it doesn’t affect the gauge.
You had a $45 fuel pump installed, you are lucky your Caravan made it home from the shop without dying.
Thanks for the info. I understand that it’s an inexpensive pump. But since they said that they tested the readings coming from the pump and they were all correct, wouldn’t that indicate that the problem isn’t the pump? (Not trying to argue; just trying to understand.)
I watched your cluster self-test video, the fuel gauge is way out of calibration, coincidence? Strange this should happen after replacing the fuel pump assembly. Did you repeat the test after they double checked the fuel pump install?
No, I haven’t gotten the car back yet. I should be getting it back today. I’ll retest and post another self-test video.
So, I just got the car back and did another cluster test.
Strange thing is: after they replaced the fuel pump and I got the car back and the fuel gauge wasn’t working, the gauge went all the way down to E at the end of the self-test (as can be seen in the original video I posted).
However now, after bringing the car back to them for the fuel gauge issue, and the dropping the tank again and testing the fuel pump, etc., I just got the car back from them and did another self-test, and this time, the needle stops at 1/4 tank, which it didn’t do before!
Still no error, though.
Here’s a video of the second self test that I just did.
(Actually, I just rewatched the first video, and I see that the gauge was starting on E before the self-test started, even though the other video shows the needle stopping at 1/4 tank when the car was turned off. So maybe it’s an intermittent problem.)
So maybe it is the cluster.
UPDATE: The shop replaced the instrument cluster and it resolved the problem. Gauge now reads correct amount, and it goes all the way to E when the car is off. Not sure what could have caused the problem. Maybe something electrical while they were working on it damaged it. Either way, replacing the cluster resolved it, and the shop did it at N/C.