were should i start to check? I would go to the basic spark/fuel/compression but that wouldn’t cause it to just die on the highway would it? Someone told me the alternator, but i put a new battery on it wouldn’t it crank with fresh juice?
If the battery is cranking the engine ok, but it won’t start, unlikely to be an alternator or battery problem. Cranks but won’t start is usually either a spark or fuel system problem. Check visually for a good healthy spark at the spark plugs during cranking. I use a spare known good spare spark plug for that test myself.
I realize the problem started with it dying on the highway. But at this point you have to figure out why it won’t start first. After fixing the “cranks but no start” you’ll have to fix the other problem; i.e. if the fix for the no start doesn’t.
Remove the upper timing belt cover and watch the cams while cranking the engine. Tell us which engine is in the car.
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We still need more information…or at least clarification on what you’ve said.
Was the engine running or not when you initially had the problem? First you said it died, then you said it was idling when you turned it off. Those statements are mutually exclusive. Which is it?
I don’t know why you keep mentioning that you have a multi-meter. So far there is nothing I’ve heard wrong with your vehicle that makes me think it’s electrical.
What engine do you have?
If you have a broken timing belt then no way in hell will the engine backfire. You need compression for that to happen, and you can’t build compression with a broken timing belt.
Does this engine have a timing belt or chain? If a chain it might have slipped a tooth. This could be enough for engine to die.
I’m leaning toward fuel starvation…but still need more information.
Mike, I went back and read the original post. There was not a word about idling. The way I read it, they were doing 75, the engine quit ant they coasted over to the shoulder and turned off the key. The latest info that it will backfire when cranked make me believe it is not the timing belt but either spark or fuel.
He didn’t say it at the opening thread. He said it a few replies later.
Yesterday i was driving down the interstate and it just shut off on me, i pulled to the side it did seem to idle a little low and i shut it off. It didn’t not over heat what so ever.
Yea…me too…but still confused as to what happened.
Yep, check for spark and fuel pressure but I’m betting either a bum fuel pump or crank sensor or something of that nature. You can get pops while cranking with a fuel delivery problem if there is not enough pressure to start. All in all though I think it is shop time. You’re not going to fix this yourself.
Maybe not yet. If the OP can read the OBD II codes now that it’s backfired, he might get the necessary clues.
Guys i know this post is from the begging of the year but who ever said it was timing belt was right… since this engine is a 2.4 non interference engine we put a new timing belt on it and it started right up with no valve damage what so ever. I’m so happy, i paid someone 50$ to help me get timing belt back on. Everyone was telling me that if timing belt broke it was to the scrap yard they was wrong. Anytime i buy a car from now on my first question will be “Is it a non interference engine?” Dodge a bullet guys! Thank all of you for your help
Larry_M looks like we didn’t take it to the shop! I bring the shop to my garage 
I suspect that is the serpentine belt, not the timing belt. A timing belt replacement would cost a lot more.
A belt jumped off and it was put back on? Wow, that’s something you don’t experience every day.
I have a feeling there’s more to the story[?]
New belt replaced the old one?
Why was it off, anyhow?
CSA
Sounds like he paid someone to help HIM do the timing belt job, not a shop. A thrown serpentine belt wouldn’t prevent the engine from starting.