Really? Spring clamps are great. I cringe every time I see a conventional worm-drive clamp installed where a spring clamp should be. They never lose tension and save time both on disassembly and installation. They also don’t cut into the hoses.
I have instructed my crew never to replace spring clamps with screw clamps unless absolutely necessary.
LOL, I guess it’s a matter of preference. I’ll take a worm drive every time. Much easier to install and uninstall and I’ve never had a problem with one.
Comment: if they’re overtightened they’ll cut into the hose.
Let me rephrase that: if you’re cutting into the hose, you’re overtightening them.
I’m not saying anyone is, it’s just a comment.
Also try a (real) flashlight–not a cell pone–with a lens held flat/parallel to floor and “sweep” the area with the beam. May have to try it from a few directions. Works 90% of the time for me…
I assume you are talking about finding a small part on the floor. I had a little C clip come off my router and drop into a foot deep pile of saw dust. Used a magnet and everything but never did find it. I had a spare and re-engineered the dang thing the next day. Some stuff just disappears never to be found.
I lost a screwdriver once under the hood of my diesel. Looked every where but no luck. About a year later, there it was with the handle half melted laying against the exhaust. Actually it was a great improvement to the grip.
Per asemaster, I prefer the spring clamps also. The only disadvantage to them is that they can be a bear to loosen or remove depending upon access.
The worst screw clamps were the ones SAAB used for some years. It’s difficult to explain the construction other than to say it was a bit “different”. Of course that’s SAAB’s middle name…
Those clamps would not stay tight. One of the “musts” on every 5k miles interval service inspection was to go over and tighten them all. Most if not all were loose with some weeping various fluids.
Next 5k miles service; repeat process.
For those of us in the business, time is everything and I guarantee a squeeze clamp is faster to remove and replace than a worm drive. Squeeze, slide, release. No fumbling with keeping it from turning on the hose, having your socket slip off the head, etc. Plus they are self-adjusting, impossible to over or under tighten.
You know I’m not one to badmouth another shop, but here’s a real ripper. Many years ago I bought a well-maintained Crown Vic that came with all the maintenance receipts. At one point the owner thought it wise to replace all the coolant hoses. The shop replaced all 15 hose clamps, and charged him $5 a piece. That was $75 to take off perfectly good factory clamps and install inferior screw clamps.
I replaced a starter on one of my cars just 3 days ago. I had to remove the lower water hose at the engine side and move it out of the way to free room to wiggle the starter out of the car. Put everything back together, reusing the spring clamp…had a very small water leak. Removed the hose and cleaned everything again meticulously…leak remained. Removed the hose again and cut off 3/4 inch and changed to a new spring clamp…small leak leak remained. Replaced the spring clamp with a worm clamp… leak gone.
I am having the same concern that the clamp will loosen over time or bite into the hose. I guess I have to keep a very close eye on it.
Anytime I have to remove a spring clamp I also replace it with a worm clamp Big advantage being no special tools required.
Depending on the worm screw clamp, location on the car, location of the car, length of time on the car, some can become very difficult to remove if rust sets in severely.
Most have a stainless band, but regular steel worm screw assembly. Whenever I use these babies I always buy the all stainless variety. Every part, worm screw assembly and the band are stainless steel.
They’re out there. One sometimes has to search a bit.
They come off as smoothly as they go on, no matter the conditions.
CSA
My hat is off to you folks that can re-use those clamps. I guess I’ll hang onto my never used tool to remove them but I hope to never have to use it.
I experienced something similar with my old 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse. A slight coolant leak was written up during an oil change. A very small dried stain under the upper radiator hose in about 2006. Nothing to worry about. A few years later I noticed 2 or three liquid drops and purchased a worm drive clamp to replace the very cheap wire spring clamp. When I pulled the hose and was wiping off the fitting I discovered a casting ridge on the bottom. I filed it smooth and installed the worm clamp. I gave the car to my Son in 2011. So far no leak.
While I refuse to reinstall type C, type A and type E, the type F is quite reliable for me while I prefer types B and D
http://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16220
and the type E is a real piece of…
I found it worthwhile to carefully position pinch on band clamps(the clamp from hell) back into the indention on the hose to get a more successful fit when the confined location required using that type. Of course that’s after carefully cleaning the nipple and applying a sealer to the ID of the hose.
Well ain’t that a heck of a way to act. My link went off track. Give me a minute.
I’m totally lost. I thought you were talking about air hose quick connects. Type A, M, etc. Bring a sample, they are all different.
I don’t think anyone is allowed here unless they are lost @bing.
I have re used spring clamps, and replaced spring clamps with worm drive, depends on my mood of the day and how well the vice grips work on the spring clamp I suppose. I prefer the screw clamps but have never really had a problem with either,
Could it be that the pro’s here who like the spring clamps vs the worm drive clamps have a special tool that makes the spring type easy to work with? My old VW Rabbit came with a slew of those spring hose clamps, which over time I replaced with a worm drive version. But if I had the proper tool maybe the better solution would have been to just continue to use the spring clamps?
Regarding those spring clamps . . .
A few years ago, I was told to check out a coolant leak on an older GM box van
I found the leak quickly enough, coming from the lower radiator hose. Coolant seeping out from under the hose
Somebody had moved the correct spring clamp a few inches back, and installed a screw type clamp instead, to hold the hose in place
I simply discarded the junky screw type clamp and moved the factory spring clamp back into its proper position
Problem solved. No more leak. I’ve seen that van a few times, since my repair, and there have been no more leaks from the lower radiator hose area
Bottom line . . . some idiot had previously created a problem, where none had existed, before he got his grubby paws on the vehicle
Post #5 Cavell shows a picture of the tool used to pull the clamps off.
I use long needle nose pliers
even though there are 2 tools in the box made specifically for pinching the clamps.
Type E is what I replaced on my Eclipse. Obviously the cheapest possible for the manufacturer.