Anyone know if this is something i can fix myself? If not, do you know how much that usually costs? I cleaned the map sensor. It looks brand new. I haven’t tried a gas cap, but it appears to be fine. If it isn’t that either, what other steps before i get gouged by a mechanic?
If it’s a loose gas cap?
Yeah!
If not, it gets a little more complicated.
Tester
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Thanks. I’ll go get a gas cap tomorrow to rule that out.
Maybe, sorry I don’t know your abilities.
Nope, I’m not doing a parts/labor search and price shopping for you. Labor varies greatly regionally and even between shops. In general dealers tend to be the most expensive, and some specialty shops can be really high also.
That doesn’t matter. A car with a dead battery may look like new, but it still doesn’t run.
That’s no attitude to have. You may have to see a mechanic, don’t just assume they’re all out to gouge you.
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The DTC codes are set up such that you should address the lower number code (P0113) first.
It is the more serious one.
It has nothing to do with the gas cap or the MAP sensor.
Check the wiring and connector to the intake air temp sensor.
Test the sensor with an ohmmeter presumably.
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This area isn’t a great place for a woman to take a car anywhere. I wasn’t meaning it towards all.
Thanks so much! I will do that!
P0113. The IAT will be either in the intake duct between the air filter and the throttle body or in the intake manifold depending on whether you have an automatic transmission or a manual. This code indicates that either the ground is bad or the IAT is open internally. They are easy to replace but the one for automatic transmission is pretty expensive.
P0442. Almost always means the purge or vent valve is defective, unless you found the gas cap loose. Start with the gas cap, make sure the gasket on the cap is clean and has no tears in it. The check the mating surface of the filler tube to make sure it is clean and not deformed, i.e nicked. Drive at least ten drive cycles and check for the code again.
You may not really have the P0442 if the cap was left a little loose once. The problem is that as long as you have the P0113, the CEL will remain lit so you won’t know if the P0442 has cleared or not without using a scan tool. Because of that code, it will take 10 drive cycles to know if P0442 clears instead of the ususal three.
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Do you assume your doctor will gouge you also?
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There is no guaranteed way to keep from being ripped off, but you can tilt the scale in your favor. Car repair is a business transaction. Treat it like a business transaction and you will likely get the fairest price. Note: the fairest price may not be the lowest, if you pay a very low price, the repair may not have the desired outcome.
Get multiple opinions. A diagnosis will cost you so you want to know exactly what the diagnostic fee will include. If they are just going to read the code and stat replacing parts, that could get very expensive fast. In your case, a p0113 would start with verifying the code, then unplugging the IAT and checking for the 5V reference signal. Shorting the reverence voltage to ground and reading the IAT signal would be next. If it gets a low signal, then the wiring is good and it is time to change the IAT itself.
Not being there myself and doing the tests, most likely the cause will be the IAT. The wiring is pretty robust unless you have evidence of vermin getting into and eating the insulation on your wiring, that usually results in multiple failures. A quick inspection of the wire looms would be in order if that is suspect.
Do the P0113 first and then monitor to see of the other code clears on its own. If it doesn’t, then repeat getting multiple opinions/quotes for it. If you are satisfied with the mechanic that you use for the P0113, then you may want to used him (her) again.
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Thank you so much
If I’m reading the attachment correctly, with nearly 250K miles on the clock, you must be doing something right!
As far as the intake air temp sensor, not a common failure item, no moving parts; more likely problem would be at the sensor’s electrical connector, not the sensor itself. That sensor is a separate part on my early 90’s Corolla, but looks like it may be part of the MAP sensor ass’y on your car. Unless you notice something obviously wrong w/electrical connector to that part, suggest best course is to hire a pro for this. Parts connect to ECM, and definitely don’t want to inadvertently damage ECM by monkeying about w/the wiring.
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IAT sensor for your car if it has an automatic transmission.
IAT sensor for your car if it has a manual transmission.
Tester
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The bottom photo (Tester’s post above) is very close to what the IAT looks like on my car. The MAP sensor looks completely different. Not sure why there’s a reference to MAP sensor in OP’s attachment, confusing. Maybe IAT and MAP included in same part with automatic trans?
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The part below was the one i took off and looked at. Cleaned it with mass inflow cleaner etc. The wiring probably is sketchy that connects to it. The part itself looks new, but anything can be broken no matter the look. I’m definitely going to check it out with several mechanics just to see if they all say the same thing on the IAT. If that’s the case i can fix it if it’s expensive or i can settle at one that i feel comfortable with. Thanks for your response. I don’t like any light popping up on my cars. I get them fixed asap!
Most shops are going to want to do a diagnostic exam before they even make a guess at the problem . The chance of one telling you what to fix for free is really low .
Some shops will waive the fee if they get to do the repair .
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Suggest to clean an IAT sensor like the bottom photo by wiping w/damp cloth, or at most a little soap and water. Solvents conceivably could cause damage.
That part is usually just a variable resistor, resistance changes w/temperature. If there are only two leads going to it (workbench experiment) could put an ohm meter on it and see if resistance changes with temperature in a smooth manner. If so, part is probably ok, and problem is w/connection.
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Oh i definitely wont use that stuff on the IAT.
Of course. I know some with a small exam fee. It is worth it.
You can buy an air intake temperature sensor for $25, diagnostic fees will be $100 to $150 each.
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