… which is a probable indication of poor maintenance over the years, but the OP failed to mention the model year and the odometer mileage, so that is just a guess.
If the OP bought this as a used car, it is a likely indication that the previous owner(s) went far too long between oil changes and/or they used oil of the wrong viscosity. In either event, much more serious engine problems could be on the way if the timing chain is indeed stretched.
Fuel economy and performance can degrade a bit if the timing chain stretches and the valve timing changes. Does the vehicle burn an excessive amount of oil?
That was a random web search. It could be legit, or it could be spam like automatically generated content, or somebody in India who knows nothing about cars copying and pasting things to make web pages for search engine and advertising hits.
Then, it has a timing chain, and not a timing belt, so I strongly suggest that you think about the advice provided by Tester. If you are going to get the timing chain replaced, make sure you ask the mechanic to first check for build-up of damaging oil sludge. If the engine is heavily caked with internal oil sludge, there can be significant additional engine issues in the future.
A timing chain failure (IF true) at only 74k miles would give me pause. Chain failures are generally caused by irregular oil changes and/or insufficient oil levels. This means the rest of the engine is also going through premature wear.
What would I do if in your shoes? Run a compression test and an oil pressure check. I would want 180 or so PSI on the compression and around 40 PSI on the oil pressure at idle. The oil pressure can vary depending upon age of the oil, weight of the oil, and so on.
I would just want to know what I’m dealing with as that information could affect any decision on whether or not to keep the car.
An easy and preliminary test before checking compression is to have a vacuum test done. This is quick, easy, and can reveal whether or not to proceed with the compression test. Manifold vacuum at idle should be 20-21 inches of mercury at idle and the gauge needle should be rock steady with NO quivering or vibrating.
I’m seeing the 2.0 L DOHC engine used in a 2018 Sub Imp uses variable valve timing functionality. If that’s correct in OP’s case, suggest to also consider the possibility of a problem with the timing actuator(s).