OLF, Brake pad maintenance question for 2009 Accord


#1

I used to do most of my own maintenance including changing the oil and filter and front brake pads. In recent years, that has become more difficult as manufacturers have redesigned parts to frustrate shade tree mechanics and push more business to the dealership. My 2005 Oldsmobile Aurora for instance, had a weird oil filter configuration that required a special tool to remove it.
My 2009 Honda Accord V-6 has just over 100,000 miles on it and is due for some serious maintenance…and an oil change. And although they’re not on the dealer’s list of scheduled service items, I think the brake pads are probably due for replacement (the pedal’s not as firm as it used to be).
This is a CPO car still under the extended warranty. So far, I’ve taken it to the dealer or the local oil change folks for all the maintenance.

So having dispensed with the preamble, the question is, how hard is it to change the oil filter and front brake pads using standard tools like an oil filter strap wrench, C-Clamps, etc.?
Thanks in advance for your help.


#2

Under the hood your car is very close to my TL. The pads are easy - you don’t even have to do anything special regarding ABS. Just change 'em like you would a normal car. Bleed them too - sounds like they’re overdue, which could account for the soft pedal.

Oil filter is pretty standard stuff. If you’ve done it in other cars, you shouldn’t have a problem with this one. It’s still relatively maintenance friendly despite being newer.


#3

Honda shows using this type of oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter.

Probably due to the lack of clearance for a strap type oil filter wrench.

The front brake pads are easy to replace. A simple C-clamp and the old brake pad can be used to compress the piston back into the caliper. Just remember to open the bleed screw on the caliper before doing so.

If you plan on replacing the rear brake pads you’ll need this tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-pc-69053.html

With this tool the piston is rotated while at the same time compressed back into the caliper. Again, open the bleed screw before doing so.

Tester


#4

I do oil changes on my 12 Acura with no problem. I did have to buy the correct size filter tool as Tester showed though for about $20. Throw that strap wrench away. Haven’t done Honda brakes in a while but the only thing they used to have and maybe still do is a large philips screw holding the rotors on. You need one of those manual impact screwdrivers to loosen it, then no problem. Another $20. But transmission fluid changes every 30K are easy. Just pull the plug.


#5

And don’t put that screw back in! Just leave the screws out - they don’t do anything useful except hold the rotor to the hub while the car is moving down the assembly line. The lugs hold the rotor to the hub just fine when the wheel is on the car, and leaving the screw out makes your next brake job a lot easier.


#6

Thanks for the comments. I did the oil change and tire rotation today. I found some YouTube videos that show the OLF and spark plug replacement (one of the other needed maintenance items). This gives me yet another reason to be a Hondaphile. They’re so easy to work on. No fancy bolts, no weirdly configured calipers. I didn’t even need a strap wrench to get the filter off.
Of course, since I was rotating the tires, I had the front wheels off and all I had to do was reach right in and rotate it off. What a refreshing change from my GM car.
Anyway, it turns out I have a brake cylinder compression tool left over from my last job so I’ll probably do the brakes and spark plugs this weekend.
Thanks again.


#7

I’d put that screw back in the rotor. It serves to keep the rotor tight against the hub when the wheels are removed for rotation, etc. It keeps dirt and rust from falling between the rotor and hub to help prevent runout and warped rotors.


#8

Don’t forget to open the bleeder screw as you compress the wheel cylinder.


#9
I'd put that screw back in the rotor.

Those screws are mainly used for assembly. Many times the only way to remove them is drill them out. Once drilled out…you’re out of luck replacing them. Also - the rotors shouldn’t move unless you remove the brake caliper. The brake holds it on pretty securely.


#10

If theres clearance, channel locks always work great to remove oil filters, unless its the element type with a plastic screw on cap.

Question, why is it necessary to open the bleeder valve when compressing the caliper cylinder? Isnt there enough room in the brake fluid reservoir for it to go back in?

I guess just to get new fluid in to correct the soft pedal problem?


#11

“Many times the only way to remove them is drill them out.”

Or you could use the two ball-peen hammer method to get them out. As a last resort that has always worked for me. I’ve never had to drill the head off.


#12

@Fender1325‌, you open the bleeder to keep from forcing fluid backwards through the ABS. This has been known to cause a very expensive ABS module failure. Doesn’t happen often, but if it happens, it’s painful.


#13

Interesting, never heard of that. Thanks


#14

Great info guys, thanks. So, those screws have to be removed before I can get the pads out?


#15

“Great info guys, thanks. So, those screws have to be removed before I can get the pads out?”

No, just rotate the caliper up and out of the way to expose the pads for removal.


#16

“you open the bleeder to keep from forcing fluid backwards through the ABS.”

Before opening the bleeder valve, some mechanics use long-nose vice-grips with a 3" piece of rubber hose over each jaw to pinch off the brake line back to the master cylinder; this ABSOLUTELY prevent any brake fluid feedback through the ABS.


#17

@Mechaniker, please don’t pinch off the brake flex lines. That damages the flex lines and brakes are too critical for safety to compromise them.


#18

“please don’t pinch off the brake flex lines.”

I stand by what I wrote. It is common practice at dealerships in my area of the country. Long-nose (3-4") vice-grips are used, the nose tips covered by 1/2" rubber hose. Just enough pressure is applied to close the line. Sorry, but that’s the way it’s done.


#19

That’s why I do my own. Just because it is common practice doesn’t mean I like it.


#20

I’ll side with @BustedKnuckles and @Bing on this one; When I do my own brakes, I can’t fix the damaged line for free if I go up to myself and say “Oh, hey, we uh, discovered that your line collapsed, gonna need you to pay for a new one” like the dealership can… And will.