Is this a common problem with other ABS systems, or is this just pertaining to the design on the Accords or Honda’s?
I do quite a few brake jobs for friends and family and was never aware of this.
Do I need to change my ways???
Here’s what you do when doing brake service on a vehicle with ABS.
Always loosen the bleeder before removing the caliper. Then open the bleeder and compress the piston and then close the bleeder.
Once the brakes are serviced, slowly pump the brake pedal until a firm pedal is felt. Start the engine, and slowly pump the brake pedal to make sure the ABS light doesn’t come on.
When it comes to brake bleeding, always refer to the proper procedure specified by the manufacturer.
Tester
When I had learned to help my dad bleed brakes 40-50 years ago…there was no ABS system, so I never knew that there was a change to the way to bleed an ABS system.
Danged…I keep learning and my brain doesn’t even hurt!!!
I had a friend argue that you never have to bleed the system unless you open a line to allow air into the system. I couldn’t really come up with a valid argumentexcept that moisture will build up eventually.
When I mentioned this to my dad, he had the answer. You mat not have introduced air, but if you avoid opening that screw every brake job, then ten brake jobs later and you have to bleed the system and you will break off every one of those bleeder screws.
I bleed the brakes every 3 years (no ABS) to replace the old fluid with new.
I’ve bled ABS the standard two person way with no issues but there is a sequence of what wheel to do first, second, etc.
Yeah thats news to me. I always just used big channel-locks and squeezed the old pad in the caliper to compress the piston, then swap in the new ones.
Actually I think years ago, Tester was the first one to mention it.
Well believe it or not, I’ve procrastinated on this for almost two months. I’m about to do the deed. Thanks for all the tips. 
I have yet to find an oil filter that I can’t remove with my tool like this one: http://www.agrisupply.com/product.aspx?p=67069&sid=asf10&eid=Easf10&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=67069&gclid=CM7dw7vPrMACFScV7Aod0HAAFg
I’ve had it so long, I don’t remember when or where I got it. One size fits all.
The Accord oil filter came off without any tools at all. I had both front wheels off to check the brakes and the filter was right past the passenger’s side wheel. Just reached in and twisted it off.
But about those brake pads…
Whoever puts Accords together must have gamma-radiated blood or something. I stripped two rachets getting the lower brake caliper bolt off my Accord today (fortunately, I have about six more).
I tried to get the upper bolt loose and actually cracked the socket! Ruined three tools.
Fortunately, when I did get the caliper off, I realized the pads don’t need replacement yet.
https://imageshack.com/i/ipKQBfoHj
So I’ve got time to get a new 14mm socket before I take another crack at it, maybe in a few more months.
All the Hondas I’ve owned (not Accords) have had windows in the calipers to inspect pad thickness.
All the Accords I’ve owned ('81, '85, '88) had the inspection gap.
So what you’re both saying is, if I had known my car better, I wouldn’t have had to take the caliper off–and break three tools – to find out I didn’t need to replace the pads.
NOW you tell me.
Well yes, but you would’ve busted your tools eventually.
LOL. True dat.
My protocol for compressing calipers has always been to place a clear plastic tube from the bleeder into a half full clear bottle of fresh fluid hung as close to the caliper as practicable. That prevents backpressuring the system, and it also clears contaminated fluid from the caliper piston and, because the backdraw pulls fresh fluid back up the straw, replaces it with fresh fluid. While vehicles without ABS should not have a problem with backpressuring, I like to get some of the crap out of the caliper anyway.