Oil Filters

Is there a real difference in oil filters. I have 2007 Honda Civic that I normally have serviced at a local shop that has always treated me right, they use Might Oil Filters which I believe are made by Purolator. Do you recommend using the OEM oil filter (Honda) or is might just as good?



Thanks

That is Mighty not Might,

OEM filters are nearly always made by a known company. Your OEM may well be made by Fram or Puralotor or whatever using Honda specs.

The biggest deal with changing oil is not filter brand or oil brand itself(as long as it meets specs) but the act of actually performing it in a timely manner.

In terms of engine longevity and oil changes 95% of it is performing in a timely manner the balance of filter and oil brand maybe at best contributes about 5%.

My opinion is that they all all good, so I buy based on price, mostly. That decision generally leads me to an aftermarket filter. At this time, price point allows me to buy Motorcraft filters for my Ford products, and mostly Purolator for the others.

I do pay more attention to the filter if I am running synthetic oil, for a 50% longer extended oil change than what I use for conventional oil.

I have had no oil related failures from any brand of filter, ever, and includes all the car maintenance I have done since 1970 or so.

You can go read a lot of discussion about oil filters at bobistheoilguy.com, and either be enlightened or confused further.

Agree; the key is changing them frequently enough and using a long life filter with a car that has exteded oil change intervals such as VW and BMW.

I have changed oil on my cars since 1965 and have never had an oil related problem.

Thanks to all that answered the question. I do change the oil on a regular basis and check the levels also. You here so much about the grade of filters that sometimes to much information is simply “to much”. Thanks to all of you that answered and what I thought would be the case is just that…thanks

The infamous Oil Filter Study study page was updated last year apparently. You may want to take a look

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

Agree. I use whatever filter is on sale, and I’ve been doing this for more than 25 years with no problems. The brand doesn’t really matter. Changing the oil and filter at or before the specified interval is what matters. I also use store-brand oil instead of the expensive stuff.

I’ll be the contrarian and say I’ve always used OEM oil filters in my 4 Hondas over the years, with the exception of the Fram I once used years ago that leaked at the seam. I know what I’m getting is right for the car.

Frankly there is little difference in different brand oil filters (there are a few exceptions but very few). A lot of people like to kick around FRAM because they tend to cost less and if you tear one apart, you will find it looks really cheap. Likely is really cheap, but I have never seen any reliable evidence that any make or brand or model protects your engine any better. There comes a point where better is not material.

Be happy don’t worry.

I use OEM oil filters on my 1998 Civic when I have time to order them online cheaply, but sometimes I don’t plan ahead well enough. When that happens I use a Purolator filter. Both have performed just fine.

The criticism against Fram, which is somewhat controversial, is that they use cardboard for the end caps while every other oil filter manufacturer uses metal. Some people have used Fram filters for decades with no problems, so it really is a matter of preference.

At one point Fram was making your OEM filter :stuck_out_tongue:

If the filters are made by Purolator they should be fine. The only filters I would advise against using would be those generic, unbranded filters that are sometimes used by quick lube facilities.

These are often in white or yellow boxes with nothing more than an application number printed on the box and the quality of those can be somewhat shaky.

Even car dealers get flyers from import companies who not only sell oil/air/fuel filters but also ignition components at dirt cheap prices.
I’ve never known a dealer to actually purchase any of this stuff except one time on a trial basis and the trial did not last long.

I am sure they were, but I doubt they made those OEM filters with cardboard end caps. Not that it really matters of course. Like I said, it is really a matter of preference.

I used to buy the cheaper line of filters from NAPA and I never worried about it. They were probably not made with as much stuff as their more expensive ones but I was running a Mazda truck which recommended straight weight oils; 30 and 40 weight to be specific. The overnight temperatures would not get below thirty degrees for very long, so I never had to use multi-weight oils. The filters were really small in Silverline, but they only cost $2. I was happy to change the oil every 3,000 miles with Union 76 oil from The Ninety Nine Cent Store.

I understand the stuff is not really cardboard, but it is cheap and it does look like cardboard. Just one of the reasons not to make too much of what a filter looks like as opposed to how it filters.

And the filter in my wife’s Lexus is NOT a canister filter. The canister is part of the car. You unscrew the canister and then replace the filter element inside.

Any name brand oil filter is fine. We’ve debated this subject in countless threads, and while a defective filter is possible (with all the hundreds of millions of filters changed every year one occasionally creeps in) your odds are no different with a filter from the dealer than one from your shop.

I always ask the question, and none of us has ever seen a well designed, well manufactured, well maintained engine wear out prematurely due to the brand of oil filter. Engines fitting these criteria are generally still running when the rest of the vehicle is shot. Like my old Toyota pickup, still running without excessive oil usage when it got totalled at 338,000 miles…all on Wally World filters.

I personally buy Wix filters when I change my own oil. I may be overspending a little but in this case no harm no foul.

if the filter meets oem spec its fine, they pretty much all do. But you dont have to put in on so damn tight… after its seated 1/2 turn is PLENTY