You may have got it backwards. Modern oils are thinest at ambient temperatures and its viscosity level gradually goes up as it heats up.
Back in the Eisenhower days, when oil was cheap, maintenance manuals advised you to change the filter every other oil change. Now the filter is much cheaper than the oil so manuals are now advising you to change the filter with every oil change. It was always a good idea anyway.
The viscosity issue is a myth buster as a previous response implied. With multi-grade viscosity such as SAE 10W-30, the first number is the viscosity rating when cold and the second when at full operating temperature. The higher number is more viscous. However the rub is the real reason for changing the oil and it isn’t dirt. Over time, the additives providing the multi-viscosity break down lowering the op temp viscosity, creating sludge, and increasing engine wear. So by the time you change your oil, temperature may not be much of an issue. The idea is to stir up any sediment in the crankcase so it drains with the oil. So just run the engine for a few minutes to warm it up and then drain the oil immediately. It may take a bit longer for all to drain out but that’s the benefit of doing it yourself.
So where do you get this magical oil that thickens as it gets hotter?
Multi-viscosity oils do have a higher viscosity index at higher temps, but they are still physically less viscous.