You are good to go until your next oil change. I always change my oil with the engine cold after sitting all night. That way all the oil is in the sump and the oil filter has drained somewhat so there is less mess when you remove the old filter.
I drive about 3-4000 miles a year.
I change the oil every 6 months and the filter once a year
Also, I would change the oil FILTER every time you change oil. What’s the point in leaving nearly a quart of dirty oil in the sump?
In the old days…it was recommended to change the filter every OTHER oil change…I NEVER did…but that’s what was in the owners manual on every car I ever looked at.
Yes, my Dodge Dart said that, but then we changed oil every 2000 miles or so. The oil filter could handle the dirt for twice that long, but it was still full of dirty oil. I erred on the safe side.
Surprisingly, new Hondas (at least the Fit being tested by another site) have a ‘change oil only’ service and a ‘change oil and filter’ service. I don’t get it, and I wouldn’t do it, but it’s there.
I also own a 1998 Civic DX, and with the oil drain plug on the back of the pan, all the oil drains with the front end jacked up.
I don’t get it, and I wouldn’t do it, but it’s there.
Me either…I’ve ALWAYS changed the filter when I changed the oil. Even on my 90 Pathfinder that in order to change the filter I had to drop the splash guard (10 bolts).
If you change the oil at the intervals specified by the manufacturer, you’ll never notice any difference in engine life whether it was always changed hot or cold.
In the spring summer and fall I usually change my oil first thing in the morning before driving anywhere. My feeling is that that’s given everything time to drain down to the pan where it’ll wash out with the oil.
We’ve had threads debating the subject before. But thuthfully the important thing is that you’re oding it. As to periodicity, I’d be incline to split the difference and change it every 5,000 miles.
I’d like to add another reason to change the oil while it’s warm—if you start and run the car first, you have some oil coating the engine parts for that first start after the oil change. If you change the oil while the engine is ice-cold, the oil has mostly drained off everything it can, back into the pan. So you get all the extra wear of a cold start, plus a delay in the engine getting normal oil pressure until the filter fills.
My “imprint” about chaning at temp comes from those darn German cars where it was printed on ever maintiance schedule to “change at temp”. Now just because the Germans do it that way doesn’t make it so for all but I do like the way the oil comes out quicker when warmed up.What I really hated was cooling system work at temp, this was borderline insanity but customers insisted and management wanted too please. BMW has a run of bad water pump impellers and these cars would come in off the street in the red and the Dealer wanted you to get right on that hot pump.
I hate airplane comparisons but what is the aircraft standard? (I only did electricals on aircraft, no engine work).
I had some cars that the owners manual called for a filter change every other oil change and a John Deer tractor that does the same. After all, since they took the access cover and drain plug out of the torque converters we can no longer change more than half the transmission fluid. I also don’t believe that pumping fluid in and out through the cooling lines is going to change the fluid inside the torque converter.
For jets, cold is OK and preferred because there are some really hot things on the engine and the oil itself could burn you too. Those engines are dry sump with a tank, so all the oil was in a tank and it was a really clean oil change. No work at all.
Civicowner–you’re being too tough on yourself. Just warm it up some from now on. And it doesn’t have to be completely warmed up. No sense in burning the skin off your fingers.
When I got my first car a '61 Karman Ghia, I used to drive to Philly and back–60 mile round trip–before I drained the oil–overkill! Take it for a 15 minute drive, then check the fluids, check air in tires, etc, clean the inside of the windows, etc. Now the oil is Goldylocks–hot enough to flow easy, not too hot to scald you.
I agree with the crowd. 50 years ago it mattered, but on a modern car with multiweight oil and a good oil filter, the difference between changing oil hot or cold is negligible.
Many modern passenger cars are so low that you cannot even get the oil drip pan, much less yourself, under there without lifting the car. I do try to note the position of the oil drain plug and raise the car in such a way that the plug is on the low side. On my wife’s car, driving up on two 2x6s on the passenger side and one on the driver side is just right.
20 years ago, I could slide under my '91 Volvo far enough to reach the plug without raising it at all. Now I have to drive it up on 2x6s as well. Couldn’t be me - must be sagging springs, right?
I change the oil in my Cessna (piston engine) when warm because it uses 50W oil that takes forever to drain out when cold. 5W-20 oil spec’d by Honda pours like water, cold or hot (that’s the idea), but I still change it warm out of habit.
I own a 2005 Accord that specifies 1 year/10,000 mile oil change intervals. Don’t remember whether filter change is required each time, but I do it anyway. Why leave 1/2 qt. of dirty oil?
I usually do mine when the engine is cold and everything is settled. It’s allowed to drip for at least an hour before putting the drain plug back in.
After changing the filter and adding oil I always disable the engine so it will not start. (coil wire, fuel pump relay, fuse, etc., whatever is easiest on the car in question)
The engine is cranked over by the starter motor until the oil lamp goes out and the engine controls are then enabled to allow it to start.
Do you put it on jacks or ramps BEFORE you let it cool down. Just starting it up and driving it on the hoist or ramps would put a lot of cold oil up to the valve gear, which would likely not drain down any time soon.
I run the car till warm, drive it on the ramps, and then drain the oil, take off the filter and let the car sit for 20 minutes or so. Both cars have drain plugs at the low end of the crankcase, so having the car on a slant does not leave any oil undrained.
Don’t worry. you should be fine. I normally warm the engine for a few minutes, then leave the drain plug out for fifteen minutes to drain out as much oil as possible. Most “normal driving” is considered severe by the manufacture’s standards.I’am a little surprised that a newer vehicle owner’s manual would recommend the filter be changed every other time, considering the tiny size now being used.
Jacks and the car is never moved. The oil change is planned in advance.