Oil Change Inquiry

So if you need 4.5 quarts, what would you do with a gallon container? Buy two? Gallon and a quart? Actually I think the cost of the container itself is a factor. A gallon container vs. a 5 quart container can’t be much different, then add in the cost of packaging, transportation, etc. vs. one quart bottles. At this point in time though, I’m just happy to see it on the shelf and have increased my personal inventory three times normal. 55 gallon drum might be next.

How did we get from garage floor tilt to the topic of lubricant packaging?

The OPs question about complete drainage would depend upon the internal shape of the oil paths in the castings. Are there “shelves” that don’t drain? How much contaminated old oil is “too much” to be left in the engine? Aren’t these some of the reasons that we change the oil when the engine is hot?

I wouldn’t worry if I got out, say, 80% of the the maximum amount that could be drained. With reasonable change intervals there’s plenty of oil life left at drain time.

I think it was somewhere around post #3 or 4. Here’s the process though. First you go and buy the oil in whatever container size fits your pleasure (if the store shelve are bare, too bad you didn’t stock up). Then you either jack the car up or crawl under depending on your waist measurements. Drain whatever comes out, and refill with whatever you bought (or had on hand). It’s all related. Not to even mention recycling and filters, which could be another 20 posts.

I change my oil cold. It’s safer that way.
I’m in no hurry for it to drain.
Re contaminates in the oil, they should be suspended or settled down by the drain.
Plus, there won’t be a lot of stuff because the oil is being changed at a conservative interval.