Top Fuel engines run straight 70W oil… lol… but as you mentioned not a carmaker…
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I knew someone would have an exception! At least it wasn’t a 1950 Hudson!
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And technically not a carmaker as you said…
I can find synthetic blend racing oils in straight weight, or dino oil but no full synthetics.
Racing products like Redline sell advertised full synthetic straight weight oils with the actual multi-grade ratings in parenthesis beside the straight weight. 40 weight oil is actually 15W40. And none of these are street oils with the proper detergents.
Another use for single weight oil - motorcycle forks.
I do believe you are correct sir… I looked at there site also and it clearly states:
- Each race oil product is a multi-grade, offering 2-4% more power than oil of a similar viscosity - 20WT is a 5W20, 30WT is a 10W30, 40WT is a 15W40, 50WT is a 15W50
But it stops at 60WT and 70WT… I wonder of it is like 20W70 or ?0W70… 
Single weight olive oil for salad forks.
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How many times a day do they change it?
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My Dad bought a new Studebaker Lark V-8 in 1963. The owner’s manual specified non-detergent oil. The manual also stated that a can of STP was to be added at each oil change. Andy Granatelli had some financial interest in Studebaker at the time which probably explains the STP requirement. At any rate, we used detergent oil in the Studebaker with no bad effects.
The late Tom McCahill in his book, “What You Should Know About Cars” published in the early 1960s, recommended not using detergent oil.j He claimed that the particles held in suspension whipped through the engine bearings causing unneeded wear on the bearings. The non detergent oil allowed the particles in the oil to settle to the bottom of the oil pan where they would drain out with the oil change. Tom said that he preferred having detergent in the bathtub rather than his crankcase.
Tom McCahill didn’t like multi-viscosity oil. To him, 10W-30 was a lousy #10 and a lousy #30. The real reason for multi-viscosity oil was that service stations wouldn’t have to stock as many different weights of oil. He claimed he used only straight weight non-detergent in his cars and one weight higher than called for in the manual. He said he didn’t have any car that used oil even when the odometer reached 80,000 miles. I bought a 1954 Buick from my dad. I sold the Buick at 160,000 miles and it used no oil between changes, never had the cylinder heads or oil pan off the engine and was still on the street 2 years after I sold the car. We always used 10W-30 in that engine. McCahill’s writing style was wonderful and great reading, but I disagreed with some of his advice.
There is now synthetic oil a available for music instruments, and French horn players debate whether this oil had any benefits over traditional rotor and valve oil.
+1
But, many years ago, they were okay.
Back in my late '60s gas jockey days, a guy drove in to fill-up his Rolls Royce (late '50s vintage, IIRC), and when I checked his oil, it was in need of a couple of quarts. So, I asked him which of our oils he wanted, and he stated that it had to be non-detergent oil of a single weight.
I tried to convince him to take our “premium” 10W-30, but he was insistent that it had to be single weight, non-detergent oil. So, I rummaged around in the back of the shop and found a few really old cans of what he wanted. He seemed really happy to have bought a couple of quarts of oil that the station manager hadn’t been able to sell for several years.
Nope, I always land on GB site for Mobil for some reason.
Interesting. Is this for the 2.0 L Inline 4, or the 1.6L Turbo? I’m on the 2.0L not the 1.6L Turbo. I think 5w-20 is what’s listed in the manual for the 1.6L Turbo. The 2.0L plain inline 4 is specified as 0w-20.
My 2.0L requires 0w-20.
Back in 1958 my dad always bought oil at the farm store in gallon cans. It was the fleet brand. I was only ten so memory fades but I do remember the conversation on whether or not to use non-detergent or detergent in the 58 Chevy. I think he settled on detergent against the advice of some old timers. Maybe the oil was for tractors, I don’t know but seemed to work well for 60,000 miles. We were on vacation heading east and he hadn’t had time to change oil. So when we stopped at a park in Wisconsin for a picnic lunch, we changed oil. Brought everything along. I was trained at a young age. I can’t remember what we did with the used oil but back then you dumped it on the gravel roadway to keep the dust down.
I used Stp once and in the winter. It took forever for that stuff to flow out of the can but I was sure it would be good for the engine. About 66 or sometime we had a 60s lark for commuting. I think we still used tractor oil in it. Just remember no carpeting and fixing the rust on the front fenders. That vacuum hose would slip off from time to time so I was the designated mechanic.
if you know this, why would you chance a warranty denial by continuing to supply your own parts? I understand the lack of trust of a specific shop (KIA dealership in this case,) but overall. the Ford dealership has filters that will meet KIA specs, as does Firestone. If not, they can get them. You can probably even ask them to get the filters from KIA so they say KIA on them. and then your warranty from KIA and the oil change place is intact. What if the filter you provide has a pinhole in it? and it fries your engine. That is totally on you now.
its been discussed here quite often, but part of how shops keep in business in a world of warranty work, problem returns, and just in general, is the markup they put on parts. You are literally ripping off the people you expect to take care of your vehicle.
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How ever many runs down the track! 5 runs, 5 oil changes. The engines are rebuilt completely every run. New pistons rings rods and bearings every run. 10,000 hp takes a toll!
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I think there’s a misunderstanding. I was referring to the shop doing the oil change not warranting the oil change and filter, not referring to my Kia manufacturer warranty. I will use Kia dealer for future oil changes and bring my own oil, but after I move. This Kia is such a mess that I don’t even trust them with an oil change. They’re not corporate and they are a branch of a Chevy dealer.
I’d be happy with several brands of full synthetic besides Mobil1: Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Quaker State, etc., as long as they met the Kia spec.
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I knew that and was just having a little fun.
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no misunderstanding that I can see.
You want to provide the oil and filter (and other parts,) so you can maintain quality and control, and maybe even save a few bucks.
But what if you get a bad batch of oil? What if your provided filter springs a leak? What if water somehow gets into your oil? any of these things could feasibly damage an engine, and whomever is doing your oil change will not warranty failed parts (or any aftermath,) that you provided.
What if one of your provided spark plugs breaks? Water pump fails within 2 weeks? New parts can go bad or even be labeled improperly. If you provided parts, that second batch of labor is now also on you.
It is completely your prerogative to accept that responsibility on yourself, I just don’t understand why you would want to do that. Seems unnecessary to me. Especially for an economy car.
If the shop (dealership or otherwise,) provides oil and filter (or other parts,) then they are on the hook for the quality, for the labor to replace those parts, etc.
Because they cannot exist! The oil weight number refers to a formulation of mineral oil. It IS NOT A VISCOSITY RATING! Sythetic oils are rated based on what mineral oil they are equivalent to. Synthetic oils don’t lose viscosity with temperature as much as traditional mineral oil so it’s impossible to rate a sythetic oil in a single weight mineral oil equivalent.