Nissan Almera dashboard problem

Hello

I have a Nissan Almera N15 1.6 Gasoline GA16DE 1999 Automatic and there is a problem with the dashboard…

When the engine is running, the fuel gauge goes to max (sometimes it shows correct reading), speedometer works occasionally (usually its at 0), tachometer is usually at 0 (sometimes it works),
temp gauge works normal I think, odometer is usually blank (sometimes it shows readings), and clock works normal… Lights on the dashboard works normal aswell…

I’m wondering what is causing this? I have checked fuses and they should be good. Before I strip the dashboard and have a look at the cluster and circuit board, I wanted to ask if someone here knows what could be the problem?

2 potential issues…

Corroded ground connections. For electrical problems it is best to make sure the grounds are making good contact, especially on a 25 year old car.

The second… a 25 year old car has 25 year old circuit boards with 25 year old capacitors that may have failed. Or those many years of vibrations may have broken traces or solder joints on the boards. I think this is most likely your problem.

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+1 to Mustangman’s suggestions, but I want to add another possibility, namely a Body Control Module that has gone bad.

The fuel gauge symptom makes me think there’s a problem with its precision voltage reference circuit. The first step I’d do w/this problemis to voltage test to make sure all the powers and ground inputs to that circuity are good. If those test ok, my guess is the circuity is going to have to be removed and bench tested or replaced. Sometimes just bench-resoldering the pcb connections for something like this will work too. Don’t attempt unless you have the needed equipment and expertise.

When it comes to instrument clusters acting up, I acquire a used one from a local u-pull-it yard and install that.

So far, each time I’ve done it, it fixed the problem.

Tester

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Thanks for the replies

What means “grounds are making good contact”? Only thing I understand about ground is that the minus battery cable is connected to the body, is that what you mean?

Body Control Module… I checked on the car electrical system manual and there is no mention of such module, only Engine Control Module, could it be the same? And only thing connected to ECM is Tachometer. Speedometer and other gauges are not connected to it I think, here is a diagram: Nissan Almera ECM - Album on Imgur

Voltage reference circuit… So would I take the dashboard off and check connections behind it? And when power is ON, I would check voltages of connections with multi-meter?

It would appear the processor in the instrument cluster (combination meter) is failing. Replacing the cluster would be an easy fix.

It is advised to always check instrument cluster input power and grounds before replacement. Oxidation on the connector pins is a possibility, disconnect and reconnect the instrument cluster a few times to see if operation is restored.

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Your car is the European version of the Nissan Sentra, and 1999 Sentras had a BCM. In case the other good suggestions don’t help, you might want to consider whether it is worthwhile getting a used BCM.

With all due respect, I think that this is a job for a trained mechanic.

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Yesterday I removed the dashboard and checked the connections behind it… There were 3 connectors to it and I couldn’t even remove any of them so I just placed it back…

But today I finally got into the dashboard gauge test mode and maybe I did some reset to it. Now all the gauges work normal. Will see if they work from now on

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Good. How did you get into the test mode?

I put power ON, went into “trip A”, resetted it and held the button. Then power OFF and ON again and quickly pressed the button 3 times and then it goes into that mode

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It sounds like the problem is fixed. Good for you! My guess is your fiddling with those connectors trying to unplug them is what fixed it. Just wiggling them scraped away some built-up oxidation on one of the connections. Connectors on cars are often connected for years and years before anyone attempts to disconnect them. This causes them to stick & can be very difficult to disconnect. That sticking effect , combined with the fact you probably don’t know what part of the connector you have to push or pry to release their built-in locking mechanism is why they seem stuck together. If you later decide you really do want to disconnect them to look for pin corrosion, your best bet is probably to hire a mechanic to do it for you. Ask the mechanic to show you how the locking mechanism works also. Then you’ll probably be able to do it yourself next time. Best of luck!