Never-Seez on sparkplug threads?

I’m about to change the plugs on my 2007 Dodge Dakota 4.7 for the first time. Should I use Never-Seez on the threads?

Yes. Apply a thin coat to the threads. Also apply dielectric grease to the inside of all the boots of the plug wires, plug and coil ends.



Just install the plugs

Use a torque wrench if you’ve got one

Don’t put anything on the threads

You will get a whole evening’s worth of reading with the responses you will get here and with doing a little searching on the web.

FWIW, I’m a professional mechanic and my opinion is to use the original make and type of plug and never use anti-seize. How strongly do I feel about that? I had a guy working for me who insisted on using anti-seize despite multiple requests not too. I finally threw away the bottle.

Spark plugs seizing in the head is simply not a problem if they are correctly installed, save for the Ford 3-valve engines. I’ve seen damage from plugs coming out because they were too loose, I’ve seen plugs seized because they were cross-threaded, I’ve seen stripped threads from overtightening. None of which would have been helped with anti-seize.

I’ve never used an anti-seize product on spark plugs and I have removed and replaced hundreds of them. Just be cautious and pay attention and you shouldn’t have any trouble at all. If you treat a spark plug like a bolt…you will have problems.

Anti sieze is not necessary. But if you’re worried about the plugs freezing in the head, dab a little engine oil on the plug threads first. The oil will carbonize from the heat of the engine and essentially act like graphite lube when you remove them. I’ve done this on my own cars for 20+ years and never had a problem.

You’ve asked a question for which no sciemtific answer exists. Whether to use anitseize on spark plug threads is really a matter of preference. I’ve never used it in over 40 years and never had a problem.

I do, however, often use it on other threads.

If the heads are aluminum, I would recommend using a thread compound made for that purpose…A steel plug torqued into an aluminum head with an electrical current passing through that interface is a seizure waiting to happen…

Ypou might find the attached link informative. NGK is a top sparkplug manufacturer and approved OEM supplier to many manufacturers.

Not sure what plug you’ll be using…But if you use NGK or Denso…then you don’t need to use anti-seize. I’m not sure what other companies like (AC/Delco or Mopar) do. They might coat their plugs like NGK.

My recommendation would be to use a little anti-seize. Plated threads or not, over time electrical current can degrade plating or remove it entirely.

Heck, in the restoration of antique motorcycle parts I’ve removed chrome plating with low current and an electrolytic bath; much as I have Parkerized and Cadmium plated parts along with rust from heavily oxidized pieces.

Kind of surprised to hear the pros don’t use it. Myself, I’m a little afraid not to use it when the plugs are in there so long and in aluminum heads. I’ve never had a problem using it and am always relieved after the initial tug and the plug comes free in one piece.

While it is true it would not help with crossed threads it would be helpful with a rusted in plug. While proper maintenance would prevent this some plugs can get rusted.

Rely on what the pros say, that would be my advice. The best advice comes from those with the most experience. It is probably the case that using the correct plug, and changing it out on schedule, that is what is most likely to work. Still, me, a rogue of the shade tree fix it yourselfers, I always coat the spark plug threads with a wee-tiny bit of moly-lube, and verify the tightness meets OEM specs with a torque wrench, and, in 40 years of doing this on both a 70’s Ford truck, a 70’s VW Rabbit, and a 90’s Corolla, never experienced a problem with a plug coming loose, or being difficult to remove.

If the bulletin from NGK for example is read, it will state that the only reason they do not recommend anti-seize on plated plugs is because the installer could erroneously overtighten the plugs and pull the threads.

This all goes back not to the type of plugs or whether any anti-seize compound is a problem, but whether or not the plug installer has canned hams for fists.

The Motorcraft / Autolite plugs that Ford engines favor don’t have any “Trivalent Plating” on the threads…

Never do it. Lubricating threads causes increased clamping force for the same amount of tightening torque, so even if you tighten it to OEM spec with a torque wrench, it’s too tight.

I’ve installed hundreds of spark plugs with a dab of oil on the threads and never had a problem. I never use a torque wrench, but go by feel. And I’ve never damaged a plug by overtorquing.

Anyway, all these different responses are as predicted by asemaster: lots of different opinions.

I agree with Jesmed. A drop of synthetic oil on the threads and careful tightening has yielded great results for me for over 20 years. No stuck plugs and no stripped threads.