The motorhome is a 1994 gas powered Winnebago Adventurer. It’s urrently our temporary home and at any given moment we will have to move it, especially in case of a mishap or emergency as we are not too far from a naval air base and potential bad storms. The brake light on the dash stays on. The leak is not a hemorrhage the fluid leaks about maybe a small bottle of brake fluid or so over more than a month. This is just from starting the motor. This is not the typical brake system as it has a hydraulic assist that works with the power steering system. My quandary is that I am not able to get a mechanic to fix on site and because we are living in it I cannot take it to a shop. Once we had another class A motorhome and it needed a lot of work and so we stayed in a extended stay while it was being repaired, but unfortunately we don’t have that option right now. So in order to move it to a different location where it will stay until we transition to another newer RV or house. I’m trying to come up with a temporary fix to repair the line.
Some options I’m exploring are silver solder to plug the leak which also has to be heated. In order for thee to be a safe environment to do that I need to remove or bleed all fluid that is in the lines. I can turkey baste what’s inside the master cylinder reservoir and I figured I can bleed the line by just letting it leak out as it’s been leakingupbtill now I have yet to find any mention of this online. The bleeder valve is likely rusted and would have to be cut off and replaced so I don’t even want to consider doing the bleeding by way of the valve there’s another option I’m open to explore it. The next option is to cut the line where the leak is and splice in a brake line repair kit with the proper brake fitting. The line should fit inside the existing line, it’s a complicated process since the hole is very close to the area of the brake shoes cylinder. I realize that a temporary fix isn’t going to be the best option but at the moment it’s the only option that I have available. My only experience with splicing lines so far is repairing my transmission line that was leaking. One of the temporary fixes that I’ve used in the past is JB weld or JB steel it has held up but in this case the PSI is much higher and will probably not hold up. I have to confess I already have put JB weld or actually the equivalent of from harbor freight where the line is leaking in the hopes that it would stop leaking but that’s not the case so now I will most likely have to file off the JB weld in order to be able to put the silver solder on and heat it up. I can really use some advice here and I’m hoping I can get this done soon for the next storm poses a threat
Suggest to not attempt the soldering or JB Weld ideas. Too dangerous, both to you and other folks on the same road. In difficult cases like this sometimes the easiest method is to replace the entire affected brake line, or all the brake lines. Another option is to cut just the affected segment out then re-connect everything back together w/new pipe segment & unions. Brake line connections btw must use brake-use approved type of pipe & be double flared btw. If not equipped to do this job correctly yourself, ask around at the various local shops if there’s someone they know with the needed expertise who will come to your RV and do the entire job there, rather than taking the RV to them. Tell them any flexibilities in your time schedule. It seems like hiring someone would have to work as long as you agree to the rate they ask.
I’m guessing you have more problems hiding in your brakes that haven’t shown up as symptoms yet. Suggest to ask for a shop inspection on the brakes for all four wheels, including removing drums if applicable.
The only proper way repair the brake line is to cut out leaking section, and then flare the brake line with a flare tool, and then install a replacement section using flare fittings.
But you’re still going have get the bleeder open to bleed the brakes when finished.
Well the liquid weld failed so not gonna try that again and the soldering if you take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSX6ST12_WU works really well with Muggy Weld silver solder. As I mentioned the bigger concern is igniting the brake fluid with a torch that’s needed to solidify the solder. As for replacing the whole the brake, that will probably need to be done by whoever will have it next. I did mention splicing the line as you are referring to cutting it. I do have the approved double flared brake line and union joints available, so I’m considering doing the myself or maybe I can find someone to do it, unfortunately the only mobile mechanic in the area is too busy and is also saying that the whole line may need to be replaced and that’s a lot of work without out having it done in a shop. As far in shop the closest place that would touch is almost 50 miles away and we would have to have it towed there and move out temporarily to an extended stay tell the job is done awe can’t do that at this time. In another forum it was suggested to use gaffers or duct tape as the storm approaches, but that doesn’t make it so we evacuate if we need to for any reason and I can’t see how that would hold up to the PSI.
I am going to be harsh and honest. Fix it correctly or die. 15,000 lbs of motorhome is death on wheels for you, and more importantly, for everyone in your path. There are no temporary brake fixes. None. Do it right or don’t drive it at all.
If you can afford to have it towed to a shop, then you can afford to have it towed to higher ground and get it repaired when able… (I would think anyway)
It is very hard to tell from the picture, but if it is close to the wheel cylinder, is there enough room to cut the bad part off and redirect the brake line close enough to flare the end and reconnect it to the wheel cylinder??
Although I am totally unfamiliar with the vehicle I will venture to say that it seems unlikely that power steering pressure is connected to the backing plate/rock guard.
Try getting the bleeder open, if it breaks you will either have to replace the wheel cylinder or get the broken bleeder out or replace the wheel cylinder. Measure the the entire brake line and diagram all bends. Have a shop make you a new line, possibly in two or 3 sections to ease installation.
Another possibility is to use European style bendable copper- nickel line with the proper end fittings. consult with a shop before beginning work.
As others have said, there are no temporary brake line fixes.
The leak appears to be from the parking brake system. The regular brake line is entering the wheel cylinder through the backing plate above the axle. Certain P30 Chevy motorhome chassis of that vintage had a spring applied/hydraulically-released parking brake connected to the power steering pump.
If I understand correctly, this motorhome sits most of the time on a site. The only reason to move it is if an emergency arises- flood or other evacuation reason.
Forget adhesives or soldering. Neither of those are really feasible. It will be far easier to replace a section of line using prefabricated lengths from the auto parts store. An inspection will reveal how far back it needs to go to get to solid line- it may not be that far.
Then, you need to form a double flare (AFTER putting the nut on the existing line ). This can be very hard to do lying on your back with a cheap flaring tool. So hopefully you have a good tool that won’t slip as the pressure required to do a proper flare on a solid section of line is considerable. But it’s not technically difficult.
The bigger issue may be the bleeder being rusted in place. If that won’t come out, you also need to replace the wheel cylinder and if you’ve never done a brake job like this, could be a tough first time experience. Especially dealing with springs and not the proper tools.
I’d keep calling around looking for a mobile mechanic willing to come out and fix it on site. Bound to be someone that knows someone that is willing to help. Cash and no paperwork may be beneficial in alleviating any liability concerns…
Now I’m going to be harsh and honest, unless you know someone who is going to fix it I have no option other than to fix it myself and with little to no experience that’s going to be just as potentially deadly.
Yes it is very close to the wheel cylinder and that’s why so far I haven’t cut it.have these MuHize 6 Inches Brake Line Kit -… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CB3GR4YL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share on hand in case there is a way to cut and repair the gap, splice it?
The only other thing I have is a short video, I haven’t been able to get clear enough photos, I don’t think it’s the e-brake line. The e-brake works with no issues. It’s most likely the rear cylinder line. As for not driving it I haven’t really driven it except to move it a few feet and that’s how I learned about the brake issue,. That’s was a couple of months ago.
I appreciate that but as you can see the general consensus is fix it right or die and there are no temporary brakes fixes. I’m thinking they are right.
). This can be very hard to do lying on your back with a cheap flaring tool. So hopefully you have a good tool that won’t slip as the pressure required to do a proper flare on a solid section of line is considerable. But it’s not technically difficult.