So if I can understand correctly this is a wheel cylinder where the line that’s going to the cylinder that provides the fluid for that cylinder is leaking and if a crimping method were to be used it would essentially stop that hemorrhaging of the fluid that’s going to that cylinder so essentially no loss of pressure but that cylinder would be out of operation and that wheel would not be part of the braking system so then there would only be three wheels breaking if I understand correctly?
Yes.
Your preventing the loss of fluid at that brake line, but the other three brakes continue to function.
What you’re trying to prevent is to have that brake line totally fail where all hydraulic pressure is lost, the brake pedal goes to the floor, and you have no brakes at all.
Tester
I understand, could you or someone else take a look at this P30 brake layout diagram and tell me how this particular issue applies to it particularly where the Tee is concerned? Thanks
. https://design1systems.com/chevy-p30-brake-system-diagram/
The tee on the rear differential splits off to both rear wheel cylinders.
Tester
So if the line Ts at the differential does that mean that each line from the rear wheel cylinders interact with the differential or it’s independent of it ? The fluid passes through the differential on the way to the cylinder? Thanks
That’s what I kind of figured, so is there the option to just replace the line that goes to the left side of the differential and is that the same as connecting the line to the cylinder with double flared brake line fittings or is that more involved because it’s the the differential? Thanks
If the line from the tee to the wheel cylinder can be replaced, that’s the easiest and cheapest method.
And I would suggest replacing both brake lines to the rear wheel cylinders. Because if one is leaking, the other probably is in the same condition, and ready to start to leak.
Tester
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fyi, I recently experienced a minor clog that developed in the brake-line t attached to the rear differential on my older Ford truck.
No experience w/your vehicle, but differential fluid is usually much different stuff than brake fluid, and don’t mix. The rear brake line t is located on the differential b/c the differential case is solidly attached to the solid rear axle , and I presume your RV has a solid rear axle, so a metal brake line can be used from the differential out toward the wheel cylinders. There’s a flexible rubber hose that feeds the t to accommodate the rear axle’s movement w/respect to the body& chassis…
Were I in your situation I’d be inclined to replace both rear brake lines, and do a close visual inspection of the t and the flex hose, replace if necessary, and replace both rear wheel cylinders, and any broken brake springs on the brake backing plate, which you’ll see after removing the drums. You may find you need to replace the brake shoes or broken brake springs as well. It’s a big job, but possible for a diy’er to do provided they take their time and do it correctly from step one to the final step.
The rear “t” developed a clog on my own truck recently and had to be cleaned out.
That’s a pretty big area. I guess you aren’t near San Antonio. I did a web search and found a few mobile mechanics there. Have you talked to an RV dealer? Maybe they provide mobile service. As a last resort, hang out near a dealer’s shop and talk to mechanics outside on break. You might get lucky. If they aren’t interested in an all-cash transaction, maybe they know someone that is.
In the picture below you can clearly see the brake line going to the left wheel cylinder (bleeder right above it), and to the right (in the pic) on the rear diff (middle part), you can see where it ends into the square looking block (that is the rear brake hose with Tee), that is what Tester was talking about, the right brake line goes from the Tee to the right wheel cylinder…
All you have to do is replace one or both (as said, best to replace both) rear brake line(s) from the Tee to the wheel cylinder(s), as you can see the line(s) run across the housing, not through the housing… The brake lines on the rear diff were 100% cut, flared and fitted/hand formed (from hard line) with the rear end in place as it looks in the picture, so it can be done… (Yeah I kinda forgot to make them before installing it… oops)
Most of both sides…
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Yes I’m getting the fact that both lines should be replaced. Also the cylinders but I don’t see how I’m taking the rear hubs off without the RV being jacked up and with the rear weight being what it is I don’t see that happening short of being done at a shop with the proper equipment.
I’m about 160 miles from San Antonio, As far as RV dealers, closest is only 1 about an hour away and most mechanics in town won’t even talk to you about RVs, most work for state or National chains like Goodyear.
It is extremely unlikely that a qualified and equipped mechanic would even consider taking the time to drive to the vehicle and inspect it.
That is what mobile mechanics do, just need to find one in the OP’s area, or close enough to make it worth it…
I know a guy in my area that loves doing stuff like this, just to far from the OP… Some mechanics love the challenge…
Being that it’s a bigger RV, you might need a mobile truck repair.
Problem I see is that it’s going to be more than just a simple line replacement with that rusted up wheel cylinder, it could get real expensive real fast.
Due to liability, I don’t think any licensed mechanic is going to do a simple pinching off of the bad line.
I can see that it’s a difficult situation for the OP. Needing to stay living in the RV and all.
As an aside, the state politicos here have decided to dismantle some of the many homeless encampments. Yesterday’s news had a story about a homeless RV owner who was told to pack up & leave immediately. He tried to comply, but couldn’t get the RV’s engine to start. So the police towed his RV and all his belongings away.
That’s terrible, thankfully we are not in that position we are staying at a reasonably priced RV park, recently received a semi reasonable wildfire settlement and are looking to purchase a property very soon.
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I was able to get under there and try to take some more pictures unfortunately it was with the only camera I can find a trail camera and the pictures didn’t come out that great but to make matters worse and aggravate the situation, I discovered a Black Widows Nest with a no doubt female Black Widow which are more protective and agreeaive then males and whose bite is very painful and potentially deadly. and I’m b pretty reluctant to work under there without removing it, but how? Pressure washer maybe?
I can’t even begin to tell you how many Black Widows (very common here) I have killed over the years, just kill them and be done with it…
Yes I realize forced eviction killing them is the only option, I was just reading about how white vinegar kills them but based on all the webs under there may be a lot of them. I think a high PSI pressure washer with some white vinegar added might be the best way to go? I’m not open to sprays since they are also toxic too humans.