My husband has a 2014 Dodge Charger RT all wheel drive. We have been hearing this strange grinding noise from the front end. It only happens when you let off the gas. It is not there while accelerating. Two different Dodge dealerships can’t figure it out. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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That sort of sounds like a drive shaft, CV joint, or trans-axle problem to me. Try experimenting to see if there’s any brake involvement maybe. Drive it at a steady speed for example, then let off the gas and take note of the noise. Then drive it at that same steady speed while applying the brakes a little, then let off the gas while still applying the brakes. Any difference in the sound or how the car responds?
Next time your shop gets it on a lift, make sure they check for any unusual play in the drive line components, the CV boots are ok, and that there’s the proper amount of fluid in the trans axle/differential. Nothing? Sometimes a failing wheel bearing might cause this, so ask the shop to check for that. Still nothing? hmm … when you let off the gas it changes the suspension components configuration a little, so there’s a chance something is rubbing on the wheels due to the front end lowering as a result of the deceleration. Ask the shop to look at the inside of the wheels for any unusual rubbing marks.
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Is it still under factory warranty? If not, do you have documentation the 2 dealerships could not diagnose the problem while under factory warranty?. If you do it is Dodge’s problem until properly repaired.
Check brake backing plates
I agree with sgtrock21. The dealerships may not want to find what’s wrong with your car until the warranty is over. Make sure you document that the problem thoroughly to hold Dodge accountable.
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That is a misconception, dealer employees are aware that a complaint can’t be dismissed when the warranty expires.
How many miles are on the car and what is the duration of the warranty?
I’ll post this just in case @je_allen checks back here.
I’d have the dealer technicians check engine/transmission mounts carefully and look for any evidence of alignment problems or defects involving mounts.
I experienced a problem like this once that was difficult to locate. It turned out to be what I have described.
While accelerating, engine torque moved the engine/transmission just enough to make the noise cease.
However, while decelerating, lack of much torque allowed the engine/transmission to transfer noise and vibration through metal-to-metal contact of the mounting parts, to the car’s body.
CSA
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2014 AWD Charger: I have the same grinding noise. It’s happens when you let off the gas at about 1400 RPM. It’s driving me crazy. I changed the front axels, front differential, transfer case, the front and rear drive shaft couplers. I’ve taken it to two dealerships and three other mechanic shops. I’ve written the manufacturer to no avail. No one can tell me what it is? It started at about 51k miles and now have 60k miles on the car. It is really loud in cold temperatures. Does anyone know what this noise is?
Tucson? You familiar with A mountain?
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I am back in the shop today, still looking for that noise. The shop says it travels up and down the drive train. Says it may be a differential, but doesn’t want to say for sure. I think it is somewhere in a universal joint or bearing. I’ve written the FCV Manufacturer several times, no reply. I think they are tired of my complaint. Anyone have any ideas?
Keep complaining until they find a solution.
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AWD 2014 Charger: The mystery grinding noise was the rear drive shaft. I just changed the rear drive shaft and the noise is gone. Thank you BrakeMax! No more grinding noise. It’s been doing it since 51k miles. Now I have 62k miles.
AWD 2014 Charger: So I am up to 73k miles and still doing fine. Apparently, it was the center hanger bearing on the rear drive shaft. But there is no way to change just the hanger bearing. The manufacturer wouldn’t tell me the problem and told me to take it to the dealership. I told them I had taken it to two dealerships and neither could find the problem. So if you change the drive shaft the hanger bearing is included and the noise will go away. Brake Max saved the day.
I thought it was very important for me to add to this discussion too.
2011 Charger, AWD. Grinding noise when driving. Most noticeable at slower speeds and when coasting, but minimal when giving it gas. Sounded like it was coming from the front of the car, could only be heard inside the cabin (not outside by the wheels at least; I couldn’t listen under my car while in motion myself). I checked my front brakes and rotors, even ensuring there was no pebble caught in the mud guard around the rotor. No luck. I did not notice a noise when rotating the wheel slowly while the front of the car was jacked up.
Mechanic 1: Replaced Front Drive Shaft ($800+labor). No fix. Unsure. Gave me a very unconfident guess on carrier bearing. Decided to get another opinion.
Mechanic 2: Replaced a CV joint, Front Axel Disconnect ($900+labor). No fix. Recommended transfer case, but because Dodge holds Body Control Module codes, they would not service this and recommended me to go to the dealer to replace transfer case.
Dealer (Mechanic 3): Did not think it was transfer case. First recommended wheel bearing ($400+labor). No fix. Then recommended carrier bearing / rear drive shaft. Part was on back-order, but I found a used one on eBay for $200. Replaced ($350 labor). FIXED.
Mechanic 1’s second guess was carrier bearing. However, never went back after obtaining other opinions.
Mechanic 2 was told about Dealer’s guess of Carrier Bearing after this was the second recommendation for this repair. They did not believe this to be true because the noise seemed to be coming from the front of the car in the cabin. Note: The noise was not audible outside of the vehicle; then noise must have carried through and echoed throughout the front of the car.
Dealer (Mechanic 3): Nailed it (on their second attempt). Glad Mechanic 2 did not change my transfer case!
Side note: Find a mechanic that will install your own parts IF you can be 100% sure you can get the right ones. Other parts replaced were uber-expensive new. Mechanic 2 would not install my own part; dealer would.
I hope this finds itself useful. I was in the same situation as snowskirtuscon.