Okay, whoever reassured me that my final, REMAINING speed (the highest) on my 2000 Suzuki Swift wouldn’t also go out, wrong… If I manually push the knob to the extreme right, I get it, but not otherwise. Thank goodness the worst of the cold weather is over, or now I wouldn’t have a defroster!!! As it is, I won’t have air through the summer (although I guess I could jam my felt dulcimer pick in the slot to hold it open. Again, I’m hoping not to have to put any more into this car since I’m on the verge of buying a new Yaris… Now I must decide if it’s worth the investment.
Your post is a little hard to decipher, but it sounds like the switch is bad if the only way you can get the blower to work is pushing on the switch.
I guess… First I lost the two lower speeds; now this… But when I push the switch (or lever) all the way over in its slot on the dash, it works… I can jam something (a dulcimer pick is like a guitar pick – triangular – but thicker and made of felt) in there when needed… What next; wipers held on with duct tape? So does the dash need to be taken off to repair ($$$) if it is indeed the switch, not the motor???
this is the third post in the past couple of weeks that are EXTREMELY cryptic. What is going on. To the OP…You would get a lot more responses if you actually wrote in English.
I don’t know how to put it any plainer… You know, the BLOWER? The fan that make hot air come out of the dashboard in the winter and cool air in the summer?? You know the LEVER that controls that??? When I operate the lever, nothing happens. Hence, I no longer have defrost, either. What’s so hard about it?
I’m not familiar with your previous post (if it was here), but I suspect your problem lies in one of two components: the blower motor/fan control switch or the blower motor resistor block.
I agree with NYBo in that it sounds like a worn switch.
Whatever it is you will have to spend some time and money to get this working.
Pry the switch out of the dash and see if the contacts are worn or out of line.
You can get a switch from a boneyard if you don’t want to buy new. Just make certain it works before you buy it.
I haven’t been able to find a picture of the dash in a '00 Swift, so take this with a grain of salt. Usually, replacing a blower motor switch involves removing a bezel or two, not wholesale dismantling of the dashboard.
It’s also possible that a new switch will restore ALL blower speeds. The resistor pack may be okay.
I like dulcimer music. In payment for the sage advice we’ve offered, post a sound file of you playing. ;0)
it initially sounds like the blower motor resistor died. then the constant putting the switch to high wore that out. so you may have to replace both.
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,02563/initialAction,partTypeResultSet/initialN,15201160/initialNtt,/initialNo,/shopping/selectZip.htm usually once you SEE the resistor, you can look around either under the dash, or on the front side of the firewall to find it. it usually is pretty straight forward to unclip the wire plug, and undo one or two bolts to swap out the part.
Your first post really wasn’t that clear, but perhaps Mike didn’t realize you’d posted other threads about your car.
You’re getting a Yaris after all? You seemed excited about waiting for the new Swifts. I didn’t realize your car was as new as 2000…I’d just fix this problem and keep driving it, personally. The blower problem is really pretty minor even if it’s complicated to fix, and it will cost you a lot less than a year or two of car payments. With the money you save, you can even fix the wipers 
(or whatever goes wrong next).
First choice is to keep this one going as along as possible; no, a 2000 isn’t that old, but then this wasn’t the most expensive car in the world in the first place; little things are beginning to wear out or break off, as you can see… : D Second choice is, if it becomes cost-effective to replace rather than repair, a Yaris (I keep seeing them on the road, and they’re so darned cute)… Was excited about the Swift, but that’s two years away and I fear what the American version will be like by then: probably twice as large and three times as expensive… I have the cash, so “car payments” aren’t a consideration…
Here’s the first sentence from your origional post.
Okay, whoever reassured me that my final, REMAINING speed (the highest) on my 2000 Suzuki Swift wouldn’t also go out, wrong.
You’re telling me that’s PLAIN ENGLISH. If my teenage son EVER wrote a sentence like that I’d ground him.
You’re right; I should’ve capitalized WRONG…
That was me. Your original post said that you’d lost all but the highest speed on your heater fan. 99.9% of the time that’s a sure description of a bad resistor block, for the reasons I originally described. On a rare occasion it’s something else like a blower fan relay. Or a fan binding up that can’t get spinning without the full 12VDC applied.
Hey, I’m only human! Well, except for that transplanted part.
Aren’t you the one with the squirrel in the mini-van? Small world!!!
You have a LOT MORE PROBLEMS THEN THAT…It’s called GRAMMAR.
So if it’s just the switch why not replace it? If it’s the blower motor . . . why not replace it? If I had to suffer through a hot Summer due to replacement of either a switch or motor . . . I’d do something about it. Also . . . don’t you think the new person who gets this vehicle will question it? Trade-in or private sale. Fix it. Rocketman
Wasn’t MB…re-read that post.
actually a careful re read of the post does indicate that the low (er) speeds failed initially. this indicates a blower resistor.
the “solution” was to jam the switch lever over HARD. that worked for a while. then that is dying too.
You have a LOT MORE PROBLEMS THEN THAT…It’s called GRAMMAR.
Translation: You have a LOT MORE PROBLEMS THAN THAT…It’s called GRAMMAR.
Glass houses, Mike, glass houses! ;o}
HAHAHAHAHA; ooooh, I love it…
(note correct use of semicolon; or should that be “usage,” hahaha???)