At 190 000 km, I changed the whole clutch kit( flywheel, disk, pressure plate, release bearing) because I had clutch slipping, stiff pedal, and a high biting point. The mechanic confirmed that the previous clutch was toasted. With the new clutch, the car drove perfectly for some kilometers(the pedal was soft again, and the biting point was low(close to the floor), with no issues whatsoever ). However, after let’s say 50-100 kilometers, the biting point started to go higher(as in the previous clutch), but the pedal was still soft as it should. I checked the fluid level and it’s okay, it doesn’t seem to be leaking something. I told this to the mechanic and he drove the car with me and said it’s fine in his opinion,and that it takes time for the new clutch to reach its intended biting point.
I am concerned about why the biting point shifted(it’s more than half the pedal course as I feel it). I don’t know how to explain but there was a better driving experience when it had a lower biting point.
Maybe is it something normal for this car and takes some time to adapt after a new clutch repair, if someone can confirm? (Megane 1.5 dci 110 hp)
Your mechanic is right, assuming that it stabilizes about midpoint in the release.
It is normal for any manual transmission car. What the mechanic told you is correct.
I thought that there was air in the clutch system so thats why the biting point got higher but he told me that in fact since it has a hydraulic clutch,
if there was any air in the system,the biting point would come closer to the floor instead of higher.So I eliminated this cause.Then I thought about the master cylinder since it was the only component not changed,but I dont know what are the sympthoms of a faulty master cylinder.
I dont know how the car felt when it was new since I didnt buy it new,but for me to raise the clutch more than half the pedal course seems high.Most cars I drove would bite almost immediately after I lifted the leg.
But if you think its normal and also the mechanic confirmed,I just have to live with it even though it feels harder to control a clutch with a higher biting point than another one with a lower one.
The typical symptoms: Hard to shift, esp into lower gears, and pumping the clutch pedal while the trans is in N helps. There’s usually no visible leaks, any leak is internal to the CMC.
No experience with your car, but it is usually possible to adjust the clutch biting point, often done by screwing the rod in or out that pushes on the CMC. You mechanic’s explanation of the current “symptoms” seems correct to me also. After the biting point has stabilized, no longer changing, take the car back and ask for a clutch pedal biting point adjustment.
This might help