So if I repeat drain & fill four times - after fill run the engine for 5mins, will it do?
If you want to remove the pan 4-5 times to MAYBE change all the fluid, go for it.
But I think itās a waste of time and the money on tranny fluid to go thru all that. When a flush machine will replace ALL the tranny fluid in just a few minutes.
Tester
Most common, but not always.
The 3rd gen 4runner had a design problem with their rotors. Needed to replace them every 50k miles or so. The problem was that one or more of the 4 pistons would stick. When this happened it caused uneven breaking and youād get the same symptoms as a warped rotor. Replace caliper and the pulsating disappeared.
@Tester, Iām not sure what makes actually have this ā30% drainedā thing?
As I did drain&fill in my wifeās 2013 Mazda3, I was getting more than 50% drained easily.
As I was doing drain&fill on my and my daughterās 2007/2012 Nissan Altima, I was able to get more than 60% drained.
Both makes have drain plugs, so no dropping the pan part.
I do not recall how much I drained in Subarus before, it it was something like 50% too, they do have drain plugs too.
I do agree that flush machine will exchange more than 90% in one go (to compare to 75-80% with double-drain&fill), but personally I prefer doing double drain&fill myself, as otherwise I have to lift my ā¦ backā¦ and get to the place, wait in line, listen to reps coming back to me 2-3 times asking for some great upsell services I do not need, then finally get my car back, inspect everything what mechanics touched and point them to all plastic clips they lost or broken and other things I see not right, get back to the waiting room, until they fix what they broke in the first place, etcā¦ not any time saver for me, as my paranoia ( or prior experience?) makes this process actually longer
OP, you might find this link informative.
āShould I have my transmission flushed?ā
Youāre forgetting about one important thing.
The transmission fluid is burnt/black.
The sooner itās replaced? The better.
Tester
OP told fluid is āblackishā, not āblackā
@George_San_Jose1 posted a good link, having next pictures:
ādarkā on that gradation is not actually that bad, although OP might still characterize it as āblackishā
I would suggest OP to check if he is on āreal blackā or something prior to that, as neither drain&fill, nor flush will help if it is really burned fluid
I strongly suspect that at 80K miles he is on ādarkā gradation, as although Mazda claims their fluid is ālifetimeā (and is supposed to be pale-blue), for my Mazda3 with 68K miles as I bought it already was dirty-brown, although it was shifting very good, but only after I replaced it, Iāve understood that good is 
@George_San_Jose1, @thegreendrag0n, @Tester and others:
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Firstly this article was written by a shop themselves - but then they are making themselves transparent by publishing it on WWW.
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I looked through Yelp and there was a shop advertised - 5/5 review - he actually said the same thing as in the http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/238
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He said drop the pan, change the filter, clean the pan, put it together and flush.
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So I asked him that the oil in the torque etc is still going to go through the new filter and make it dirty (because he said that just flushing means the old filter is going to make it dirty). He agreed my point of view but said 90% better off.
So this is in my mind unresolved. Dealer will do it for 1/3 less with old filter (no pan dropping) and give 1yr warranty (unsure what the warranty covers).
I strongly suspect that at 80K miles he is on ādarkā gradation, as although Mazda claims their fluid is ālifetimeā (and is supposed to be pale-blue), for my Mazda3 with 68K miles as I bought it already was dirty-brown, although it was shifting very good, but only after I replaced it, Iāve understood that good is
How did u replace - flush or drop the pan?
Mazda recommends inspection not lifetime - I donāt think so
Thatās pretty common method, to combine a flush machine w/a pan drop and filter replacement. If thatās possible to do on your Mazda, thatās the way Iād go.
I have Mazda3 with 2.0 Skyactiv-G, not Mazda5 as you do, so some differences are to be expected.
Supposedly it is a āsealed unitā, but it does have a drain plug bolt and a tiny plastic dip-stick with level marks, I needed to reach from under the raised car to get to it. Long-neck $3 funnel worked great, did not even need to get one with a flex-neck. I went for aftermarket fluid (Valvline), not OEM, as OEM was way too expensive.
YouTube was a great source of information 
Iāve seen no reason to go for pan drop as a āfilterā there is a mere mesh box, no way it would get plugged unless fluid is too much worn out.
Thanks @thegreendrag0n
One reason is also that half of the old 9qt oil is going to go through the new filter making it dirty again. Perhaps after a flush changing the filter is better.
Secondly the pan doesnāt have gasket - so the sealant needs time to dry and subject to human error?
Perhaps in newer trannies - pan doesnt get dropped? Another shop said change filter at 120k. Dealership doesnāt seems to do it.
if Iām not mistaken, here is a āfilterā for your Mazda 5:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2012,5,2.5l+l4,1501076,transmission-automatic,filter,8600
it reminds me the one I replaced it in an old Mazda of 90-s I used to have for a short time.
I did a pan drop, replaced this āfilterā and put everything back together on the mileage somewhere around 100K miles.
When I had it out, it was clear why many people elect not to replace it at all: it is a relatively lightweight fabric-like material inside, seems you have to put a ton of dirt to make it plug anything there.
fluid was dark, filter was clean, as it was not designed to stop anything but relatively big shavings, not suspended particles
if you really-really want to replace this āfilterā and deal with pan and silicone gasket - no harm would be done, if not, no harm will be done either, just go for some type of fluid replacement soon
I concur to earlier @tester advise - the earlier your do SOMETHING the better
if doing drain&fill, it might make sense to drain&fill couple times, then replace filter, then fill fresh one more time, drive few tens miles one every fill to wash all deposits around
I used Valvoline, but nowadays you have to order it āsite-to-storeā: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-MaxLife-Multi-Vehicle-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon/15125768#read-more
Now they have their own brand in store: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Multi-Vehicle-Low-Visosity-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-gal/52626199?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=1904&adid=22222222227043380819&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=86977425769&wl4=pla-193409346289&wl5=9007581&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=52626199&wl13=1904&veh=sem
First one is compatible to Mazda MV / FZ, second one is M III / MV, check what your owner manual calls for, both are much less expensive than OEM, but you have to get your homework and check compatibility.
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If I read the original post correctly the OP is trying to give advice to a friend who this Mazda belongs to. Now if you are having to go to a forum to get advice to pass on that will be a good way to damage a friendship.
@thegreendrag0n - Thanks a million.
- would the 2013 model car might have better made filter compared to one made in 90s? Because Dealer part guy told me that the filter is made of metal - it can be cleaned and used. But then I was unaware that these aftermarket parts are so cheap. They have ATP, BECK/ARNLEY, TRANSMAXX or WIX - any recommendations?
- Which oil comes close to Mazda? Probably better to buy Brick&Motor considering shipping weight. Dealer is expensive and expensive than Honda fluid.
I am inclined to drop the pan - buy gasket. Someone said if I am draining large amount of old fluid, I might want to use the Mazda fluid.
Many tips:
Another person inspected said tranny fluid is not bad - it shifts fine - so it should be fine with a flush (video above says if the fluid is burnt out, do not flush). I will be buying this vehicle
You are so concerned about filter, while even dealer tells it is no reason replacing itā¦
If such, bite the bullet and buy OEM from the dealer ?
Likely, most of them were manufactured on the very same factory, before slapping a brand label and putting in fancy branded box, Mazda OEM is included.
If you checked the links, you would notice that shipping for many things is free nowadays or you have an option to ship to store for free and then you pick it up.
Once again, you seem overly concerned about it, go EOM fluid, buy it from the dealer, be ready to pay for 3-digit bill.
If not, open your glove box (or Google is your friend) and check your Mazda specific requirement, match specs of the fluids you consider, make up your mind.
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Mr. Tester said 4 days ago just have the fluid machine do what it is designed for and be done with it. Tester is one of several poster/mechanics here that I would take the advice and move on.