A friend has two issues on his Mazda with 80k - 5 yr old:
He had the rotor surfaced due to pulsation. But the pulsation has not completely gone. There is still some happen from time to time. What might be the fix?
Tranny color is blackish. Apparently the Mazda does not have a service schedule for it. Appears the filter is internal. Should he go to a dealer and flush it to make sure the blackish goes away.
A brake pedal pulsation or shudder is one of the most common symptoms that indicates rotor trouble. The cause may be too much runout in a rotor and/or variation in the thickness of the rotor. Runout occurs when the rotor wobbles as it rotates. This may be due to runout in the hub, runout in the way the rotor was originally machined, rust or dirt between the rotor and hub, or uneven torquing of the lug nuts that cause distortion in the rotor and hub (which is why lug nuts should always be tightened to specifications with a torque wrench, not an impact gun).
Some vehicles are much more sensitive to runout than others. Generally speaking, the lighter the vehicle and the lighter the suspension, the more sensitive it is to rotor runout. The latest OEM service specifications typically call for .002 to .003 inch of lateral runout. This can be measured by placing a dial indicator against the face of the rotor and turning the rotor. If you see more than the allowed amount of movement in the dial indicator, the rotor and/or hub may have too much runout for smooth braking.
Tranny fluid should be bright red. A drain and fill including dropping the pan,changing filter and gasket is standard procedure. Mazda does not recommand flushing using an exchange machine.
Easy Replace the rotor. But check all the stuff @COROLLAGUY1 mentioned. Replacement rotors have gotten cheap enough to pretty much ignore turning them. My area of 1 million residents only has two brake lathes left for that very reason.
You fill the machine with new transmission fluid that’s 10% over total capacity of the transmission.
The machine is connected between the cooler line and the radiator.
You start the engine, and the pump within the transmission pumps the old transmission fluid into the machine while at the same time new fluid is introduced into the transmission.
Of course, if the transmission has a serviceable filter that should be replaced first.
That way, if you see any metal particulate in the pan, don’t bother with the flush.
In doing a flush at home, can I put it into gear (engine off - front is raised) - then rotate the front wheel clock wise to get more of the tranny fluid out? Any issues?