I have a 1998 honda accord and it stalls out at about 65. I’ve done a fuel test and it checked out. if i rev it up to 5000 rmp at idle it does the same thing. never consistent when it does it. I can drive for 5 mins or 30 before it does it.
Faulty fuel pump due to irregular fuel pressure.
How was the fuel pressure test done?
How long since the last fuel, and air filter?
realeased the pressure first. took out a bolt on the back top top of engine. replaced the bolt with a adapter that hooked to the gauge. swithced the car to the on position with out starting and the pressure was 43. started the car up and pressure remained the same. reved the rpm to 5000 where the engine was going in and out before and it did the same thing. the pressure did not change up or down but you could tell that the engine was cutting in and out due to the gauge reading jumping.
“if i rev it up to 5000 rmp at idle”
How can you rev it at idle???
my wife is so on my nerves about her car i got a little carried away. let me re-phrase that. if I rev it up to 5000 rpms. i changed the fuel pump this morning and it’s still the same at the 5000 rpms.
I’m gooing to take some wild guesses and suggest the cam position sensor or perhaps the igniter. Something appears to be no longer capable of functioning at higher RPMs.
Perhaps the Honda regulars can comment on these thoughts.
At 65 mph, your engine should be turning about 2600 rpm if 4 cylinder, not sure if v6. So if in neutral or park, it stalls at 5000 rpm, otherwise in gear, 65 mph at 2600 rpm?
Any codes?
no codes
The question was asked; what about the fuel filter?
There is more than fuel pressure involved. It also involves maintaining the proper fuel pressure at a certain fuel flow volume.
There’s also the vague possibility of the ignition switch being behind this if the contacts are worn/burnt enough to affect the electrical flow; with the switch powering both the ignition and the main relay. (with the latter controlling the fuel pump)
This car should be under a Recall and if this has not been done then it should be done promptly. It’s free to you both parts and labor.
These things work like a line of dominos. Over time a clogged fuel filter makes the pump work harder which means more current (heat) consumed by the pump. More current means the main relay is more prone to overheating problems and in turn this extra current/heat may cause a switch failure.
Over the very short term this may not occur. Over the long term of thousands of miles it becomes cumulative and damaging.