Maintenance and Repair


#1

I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn’t start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise … just wouldn’t start. Got jump, still wouldn’t start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I’m finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked … battery’s 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it’s still not starting.

Car’s gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that’s what’s wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it’s not the starter switch. I’d hate to get it repaired if that’s not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.

Can anyone tell me what’s happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?


#2

It does mostly sound like a bad battery. This is especially the case given that it will start better after having been run for longer. How was the battery checked and by whom? (And why are you letting the car idle for hours? If its not used that much look into buying a battery tender).

Either way the click click click when you turn the key is normally about not enough power getting to the starter. That’s the battery or the cables to the starter or the starter itself.


#3

Do You Have Remote Keyless Entry (little Key Chain Gizmo To Lock/Unlock Doors) ? Have You Noticed Whether Or Not It Is Functioning When You Have A Starting Problem ?

Some Chrysler models (“ELV” ones equipped with electronic steering column locks) from that era (including 2006 - 2008 PT Cruisers) have experienced problems with electrostatic discharge from the ignition key into the WCM (wireless control module), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. It is usually more likely to occur in dry weather conditions.

The fix on some of these is to replace the WCM (wireless control module, also called the SKREEM - sentry key remote entry module) and the ELV (electronic steering column lock) if equipped with it.

Here’s what to do. If you can get it to act up and not start at the dealer then they can scan it with their StarSCAN tool and diagnose the problem. They’ve got a technical service bulletin covering this issue.

CSA


#4

Have the battery checked when it is under load (like starting), if that was not done already. A battery with an internal short may appear be to OK when it is at rest or after the car is running. If this is the original battery, it might be time for a replacement anyway.