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Maechanic replaced my coil pack and now when I shift in reverse the car clicks and jeck hard

Yesterday I had the rear coil pack replace the sits under the manifold. No more vibration and car sound good but now when I shift into Reverse or Drive my car jecks and make a clicking sound. This was not an issue before. The mechanic says my rear motor mount is bad. Why wouldn’t the car have been doing this when it was shaking really bad if the mount was bad already. Could this have been a mistake on his part or maybe he forgot to connect something?

Also Dealership was going to charge $464 in labor He charged me $275 so I went with him but then I have guys on facebook saying they can do it for $60 and $75. Was I overcharged by the $275 guy?

Since you said rear coil pack, I’m going to guess you have a Hyundai with a transverse-mounted V6. As such, yeah, it’s more expensive to do the rears because you have to do a bunch of surgery to get them exposed for replacement.

Perhaps the car was doing this when it was shaking badly, but it was shaking so bad that you weren’t able to detect it.

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Yes I have a 2009 Hyundai Sante Fe V6. I am 100% sure it was not doing that its no way i would have missed this distinct motion and jerking. I

Maybe if the coil pack needed replacing, the engine was misfiring and had low power. Now, the engine is running well and has the correct amount of power, which is enough to make the motor mount issue (the engine is rocking in its mounts) more apparent.

I’m not sure on the charges. I’m not sure if the intake manifold had to be removed or what. You can probably buy cheap coil packs and quality coil packs. There’s always “some guy” on Facebook who can do something cheaper, faster, better. I don’t think you could buy a decent coil pack for $75, let alone install it.

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when comparing labor rates, it is imperative that you compare the exact vehicle and the exact job. Replacing a coil pack on one vehicle is not the same as on a different vehicle- they are not all the same. Sounds like yours is pain to do.

You also have to account for job quality, warranties offered, and quality of mechanic character…

I was buying all the parts my self. The fees if $60 and $75 were from folks on facebook I had no previous experience with so I went with the higher quote. The intake wasn’t completely removed he use a piece of wood to hold it up and only lifted half.

The comment that now the engine is running at full capacity makes since but it only happens when shifting gears. I guess it wasnt his fault. I just wanted to see if he did something to get another repair job out of me.

The thing about cars is that issues usually don’t just have one potential root cause. What your experiencing would need to be diagnosed and that takes time and labor.

For the work the guy did and what you paid, it sounds like he finished the job and isn’t going to volunteer his time to the new issue. If you feel like he still owes you something then I think your best course of action to to get the paid legal advice online, it’s like $15-$20 or something where you post your issue and get a response.

It also might be worth paying someone else a diagnoses fee that you agree upon in advance for them to determine what the cause of the issue is.

If the engine mount needs replacing, I suggest the best course at this juncture is to simply replace it. Might well solve the problem. If it doesn’t, post back. But the engine mount must be replaced in any event. So rather than speculating, do that first. Give yourself a chance to get lucky.

I’m seeing over 2 hours labor for replacing the right bank ignition coils. $60-$75 labor fee for that job seems a very good deal. Almost too good to be true.

Thanks all the guy is going to replace it for free.

Somewhere in this country is a guy who went blind after eating carrots.

The carrots didn’t cause his blindness (unless his wife stabbed him in the eye with one) and replacing the coil pack did not cause your problem.

On some vehicles it is easier to access the rear bank by loosening the engine torque control mounts, then use a ratchet strap to pull the engine forward. It is possible that one of the mounts was not properly tightened while finishing the repair. If the problem is being corrected for free accept it, people make mistakes.

Thank you all for advice. comments, and sarcasm. I am pleased with the outcome and my car will be repaired tomorrow. As a female I was just looking for insight on the matter as I have in the past had shady tree mechanics that weren’t honest. :wink::yum:

There’s a popular tire chain in this region called Les Schwab Tires. Their tires are not the cheapest though they’re known to have good service and free tire rotations for the life of the tires.

What I found out after awhile is why they offer free tire rotations. It’s so they can do all the other “free” inspections such as brakes and suspension parts to offer repairs to the customer. I’ve taken their information from my free rotations and done the repairs myself.

Well the last time I had a tire rotation done with them the tires were not rotated, even though it was taken in for a rotation, I waited 20+ minutes and had the keys given back to me (with a smile if I recall correctly and an enthusiastic ‘it looks great’). The reason I knew is because there was something distinctly different about one of the wheels.

I called them and they said that rotations are done based on the need of the tires condition, (ie: tread wear). This was before I knew about measuring tread depth myself. So I figured that made sense. Took it to another location after explaining the situation and they looked at the tires and said it didn’t need to be rotated.

Later on I get my own tread depth gauge and when it comes time or a tire rotation I measure it myself and see the front are worn down a little more. Next rotation, same thing.

I think that the rotation was not done because they simply didn’t want to do it, it’s an older vehicle and figured they weren’t going to get repair(s) out of me in the hundreds of dollars from an inspection of other parts.

If it wasn’t for that distinct difference on one wheel I would not have known. Had I not obtained a tread depth gauge I would not have known that the front always wears down faster than the back.