Looking at few more cars, help me pin point

2004 Grand Prix 115k - $2800
2001 Toyota camary 160k - $1600
2006 Mazda 6 135k - $2500
2009 Nissan Altima 124k - $3000
2010 mazda 6i sport 90k - $5,200 , said mechanic owned New: Brakes all around,Shocks front with Links,Alignment,Engine and Transmission Flush,Battery,Filters.

Once I buy any of the cars , I’m redoing sparks, battery, alternator, starter, winter tires, filters. Probably the belts , since most cars are rubber belts and old. Would not be fun with a snapped seph belt on the coldest winter day.

Car will have 100-125k added miles within a year or two will need to be a beater.

OK , Blake - you are starting to become what is either a Troll or just a pest . It seems like you have hade enough time to make a decision by now.


And have you priced alternators and starters?

The saab had bad fuel pump, radiator had leaks, needed new tires, never bought since it was gonna need 3-4K of work done to have it near new.

The Mazda was sold by some hustlers and had a bad feeling didn’t do it

Now I’m looking for the third option.

But can I ask if you have nothing good to say, why even open your mouth? My current car is running fine, I’m not rushing into buying a car taking it slow and finding the best option.

No would buy whatever wouldn’t care if a alternator is $40 more then alternator for car b. Not a big deal, would just buy the car and drop $1,500 on parts at autozone and call it a day.

  1. Take a close look at the car to see I find anything is obviously wrong.
  2. If you still like it, take it for a 20 minute to 30 minute test drive.
  3. If you still like it, get a mechanic you trust to give it a prepurchase inspection. This should cost around $125.
  4. If you still like it, make an offer.

Why replace the starter and alternator, I’d trust the 10 year old original ones more than a rebuilt one from the parts store.


Really it is hard to give an opinion without being able to look at the cars. There is no good reason any of those models couldn’t make 200k provided they are cared for. I would set a price point and get the lowest mileage I could and go from there.

If fuel economy is a consideration the Grand Prix has a large V6, rated at 18 MPG.

If the Mazdas have a V6 they are rated at 17 MPG.

The Altima has a CVT, not ideal for delivery use.

Of that list, the Camry is the most durable/reliable. Your results may vary. jt sanders and others above give valid advice. And why decide in advance that you’ll replace all those parts? That fails to consider the actual car you have. Not reasonable. OEM parts, especially Toyota’s, are more reliable than much of what’s available on the aftermarket. Fix what needs fixing once it’s known.

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I think if he were really trying to set people off or troll, he wouldn’t do things like respond to requests not to curse.


Since I was gonna be running 5-15k miles a month and put it thru harsh winter, wanted to have new parts in it vs the 10-15 year old parts in it.

Current car I have is 251k plus

Drove 20k with blown head gasket, beat the hell out of it when someone would challenge her. Been 110+mph good 2-3 times a month.

Tie rods, control arm, suspension all going out.

She’s a wait til she pops then use the 2nd car I’m buying.
But yes I could just sell it, but when making .36 cents a mile if I can push another 10,000 miles into her that’s $3,600 for the $1,000 junk , and I could get $1,000 for it at 250k or 260k tbh.

So next car I just want to put a bunch of new stuff in her so I never have to worry about anything.

You know that is not really a bad idea to replace certain parts when you buy an old car, I’m sure many of you know how long certain parts should reliable last and none of us likes to be stranded. Something like the alt or starter could last a long time but anything rubber can go easy depending on your climate.

Without a doubt, I’d buy the 2001 Camry with 160k miles for $1600. Assuming, of course, that it runs ok, and the body is decent. Even if it only lasts another 40,000 miles, and you put another $2000 into it over that time for things such as timing belt replacement, tires, battery, etc, you’ve come out way ahead.

I can totally give a 3-letter reason why Nissan Altima would not last to 200K: CVT


Grand Prix isn’t bad if it’s the 3.8 liter motor and if the trans fluid still looks good. Otherwise, I’d pass on it. And I think they have it a little overpriced.

I think the Camry looks like the best deal (sight unseen).

“2010 mazda 6i sport 90k” looks to be the only option worth considering on the list, the rest seems to be a “dead meat” IMHO

Honestly , the main thing I’m looking for is just something to survive the 4-5 months of winter, while adding 40,000 and not hurting the cars value since it’s already bottomed out.

This spring I’m either gonna be buying 2017 Honda Civic and modifying the piss out of it (turbo or SC engine, bigger fuel injectors, better pistons, sport breaks, mangaflow exhaust and ofc the trim has to be sporty as much as the wing I’ll add to it)

Otherwise I’m planning on getting a truck and starting my landscaping company this spring.

So say in the short run, do you still think the 90k mazda is my best option, today I’m looking at 1997 138k Toyota camary. I feel like I can easily get it to 180k and resell it for $300 less and hopefully no repairs but. Just some junk for awhile.

The second option makes more sense to me . . .