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Long crank problem when cold. Once it started no problem even 2 hours later

Hi everybody. I’ve been struggling a lot lately. I have a gaz vw golf 2003 2.0 I bought it a month ago. The car wont start in the morning if it’s too cold. But if it’s not that cold like -5° the car start after 10 or 20 long cranking and immediately stall after, it will also stall when when I press the gas pedal. After that it will start easily and I will be fine for the day. It will start like a normal car all day long. The problem is when I don’t start it for a long period of time, like overnight or after more than 4 hours its gonna be the same. The battery and the starter has been changed. I thought It was the mass air flow i changed it. These are all the things i changed. Fuel pump, fuel filter,i scanned the car there was codes for rpm sansor, camshaft position sensor, maf, misfires in all cylinder and open circuit for o2 sensors. I know the car has no catalyctic and o2 sensors are disconnected.
When I changed the camshaft position sensor, all the codes disappeared and I only have the o2’s sensor codes now. Pardon my English I’m from Montreal…

These are the codes.

received_379653782582916

received_330451507589442

The next time the engine doesn’t start, turn the ignition switch on so the dash lights come on for two seconds, and then turn the ignition switch off.

Repeat this a half dozen times and then try starting the engine.

If the engine starts right up, there’s a problem with the anti drain-back valve on the fuel pump.

Tester

Given all those codes… I’d guess the ECU needs replacing. That’s just too many problems for one car. I am surprised it runs at all.

When I changed the camshaft the codes disappeared. Except the o2 sensor.

A bad engine temp sensor can also cause extended cranking when cold if it is misjudging what the engine temperature is to set the fuel ratio. There should be a reading on your diagnostic computer to tell what temp the sensor sees and you can compare that to ambiant. Also a leaky fuel injector can cause an extended crank.

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I already tried it I dont thing it’s a fuel problem. This morning I even disconnected the fuel connector beside the engine to see if it would splash and when I turned the ignition on It did splash

The temperature sensor problem disappeared when I repaired the camshaft. My last supposition was the injectors or the ignition coil

Is it possible to take a ecu from an other golf at the scrap and put it on mine?

So which diagnostic codes do you currently have coincident w/the long-crank problem you are asking about.