Hi Anne,
I’m sorry about your truck, as I am sure it was a very nice truck, that drove really well, and gave you decent fuel mileage for the size vehicle it is.
I have some questions for you on how you used the truck.
I haven’t seen anyone ask these questions as of yet:
What type of driving do you do?
I know you average about 600 miles per week, but are they all highway miles, just to and from work? Or are they 600 miles of stop and go city driving?
Where do you drive?
Weather is different in Dallas than it is in Fargo.
Cold weather driving affects oil differently than warm weather driving.
Do you carry a lot of passengers or equipment in your truck, tow trailers with it, or is it only you in the vehicle racking up those 600 miles a week, and the truck is pretty much empty? The harder an engine has to work at moving its mass (and any additional), the weaker the oil gets, sometimes in a very short period of time.
I know that you took your car to an oil change shop on a regular basis, and followed all the information in your owners manual, and that the only mistake that you made was to not have someone pop the hood for you on a regular basis, and actually take note of the oil level during the 12k mile oil change intervals.
You honestly do better than probably 50% of the drivers on the road right now, in that regards. I can’t imagine that GM is going to deny your warranty repair at all, since you have provided the oil change receipts, and from their demands of virgin oil samples from the oil change shop, they have already downloaded your truck’s oil life monitor’s history, and confirmed your oil change frequency.
All you have to do at this point is put pressure on your dealer, or go above them, and contact a representative at GM, and get the ball rolling in your favor. Assigning blame on anyone serves no purpose at this point.
Talk to the service manager and the owner of the dealer, and ask them if your truck has or has not required proper servicings according to the oil life monitor history and the receipts you provided them from your oil change shop? If they say yes, then tell them that you want them to replace the engine, without any further delay. If they say no, then ask them for a full explanation as to why they are denying your claim, and that you want the contact number for the region’s manager.
At this point, I would recommend that you change to a different oil change shop, or, better yet, go to your dealer, and ask them what engine oil you should buy and have installed at your shop that meets GM’s specs (which is now Dexos 1 or Dexos 2), and then sometime during your 600 mile week, you drop by a store and buy the needed amount of engine oil of the right quantity and weight, along with an oil filter, and then take that to your oil shop, and WATCH them change the oil for you.
Obviously there were quite a few failures in the time you owned your truck, from the oil quality that you shop uses, to the confusion of what oil is being put into your engine, to the quantity of oil that your truck needs, to how long oil should be used for in your engine, under your driving habits.
If you can eliminate the type of oil used as an issue, and now make an effort to check your oil level once a week, and use the oil that your dealership recommends you buy, you won’t ever need to have something like this happen to you ever again.
I am sure you will get your truck fixed soon, and under warranty.
Oh, and here’s an extra tidbit of information:
I believe the cause of all your troubles is the Direct Injection fuel system in your engine. This technology is extremely, extremely hard on oil, as it increases the amount of fuel dilution that the oil has to cope with.
Unless you use an oil that is good at handling fuel dilution, you are going to severely shorten the oil’s life, regardless of what the oil life monitor tells you. All manufacturers that have direct fuel injection systems are running into this problem. Porsche, Audi, VW, GM, and others are all running into oil dilution issues with DFI engines across all their models.
Unlike water, fuel doesn’t evaporate off after the oil gets to a certain temperature during a long highway drive. What it does do is reduce the temperature that the oil resists getting burned away by the combustion chamber heat and pressure. I have seen many reports of DFI vehicles having 3% fuel dilution in oil samples in shorter oil change periods than your car, and the original flash point of the oil might have been 435 degrees F, but with 3% dilution, is reduced to 360 degrees F.
This means the oil burns off quickly, and puts a lot of carbon on the engine internals.
This then leads to oxidation of the oil, your oil control rings on the pistons get locked up, your oil starts to burn oil quicker than you would expect, sludge then builds up inside your motor, and eventually, failure.
I would recommend only a full synthetic oil in any DFI engine, and one that can cope with fuel dilution for a long oil change interval. These oils typically have Porsche, BMW, Audi, VW, and Mercedes approvals on their bottles. They will also have the few GM standards listed on them too, like for their Corvette engines.
Not all 5W-30 engine oils are the same, by any stretch.
I doubt your oil change place, which I don’t believe you ever mentioned the name of, ever sold you an oil that would actually meet the needs of a DFI system over a 12k mile interval.
Good luck to you and your truck.
I’m sure it will be back on the road soon.
BC.