Lexus RX 300

I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 with 235,000 miles. I have been having a challenge with the “check engine” light coming on. I have taken it to a reputable mechanic several times. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, and the light went out. I had an emissions inspection, and the light came back on during the test, but it still passed, and the inspection report commented that there was a communication error, but no other problems. Every time the light comes on my mechanic puts his testing equipment on and finds no problems. I am trying to sell the car, but I am concerned that any potential buyer is going to look a the high miles and the check engine light and get scared off. The car is in great condition and looks like a very well taken care of car. I’m looking for some ideas or direction in order to get the car sold.

If you live in a state other than California, take it to the nearest Autozone the next time the light turns on and ask them for a code reading. They’ll do it for free. Be sure to get the code number(s), which will be in a “P1234” format. Don’t leave with only the clerk’s interpretation of the codes - you want the actual codes. Post them here and we can start helping you diagnose it.

I have a 2001 Lexus RX 300 with 208,000 miles on it. It is my perfect commuter car. Recently when you start the engine there is a loud screeching noise that goes away after 3 to 4 minutes. Sometimes if the heater is left on and I turn it off, the sound goes away. Is this the timing belt? I would like to keep this car running for at least another year, but this sound really scares me. I have not yet taken it to a mechanic, as I have read other blogs indicating that others have had this problem and no one has been able to figure out what it is. HELP!

@AprilRay Your alternator-A/C drive belt is slipping. It can be tightened, perhaps the belts are worn and need to be replaced. Not a big job.

The timing belt should be replaced every 90,000 miles.

AR, it would be better to start a new discussion rather than get into this one.

But on your topic: the sound could be coming from your air conditioner compressor, maybe internally, maybe its clutch. When the heater (and therefore AC) is off, there is no load on the AC belt’s pulley. When the AC is on (it will be if the defroster is on) that pulley is trying to spin the compressor. An electrically controlled clutch handles the engagement and disengagement of the AC compressor.

I was going to make the same suggestion as shanonia; you need to start a new thread. Hijacking someone else’s thread takes the focus off of their problem and in many cases causes all the replies to get screwed up… can’t tell whose question the reply is directed at.

I’m going to redirect this thread back to whizkid’s problem. Shadow has given you good advice. With the codes we can help you much better.

April, we’ll see you on your thread.

Whizkid find a shop with a Toyota Techstream factory scanner. I have seen scanners not communicate before. You should have a code stored in history if the light is going and off. If you can drive the car to the shop while the light is on and NOT turn the key off that would be best.