Okay so my check engine light has been on for like two years off and on. It just shows an EVAP code nothing else. Well it did have a knock sensor code, but that was fixed like five months ago. Anyhow when I try to fill my tank the nozzles shouldn’t click off until its full but it never works like that. I’ll be filling it up and it’ll click off then do it again and again and again until it’s full. Are the two related? Oh and - believe it or not, 1000 to 1, I got my smog check cleared even though the light was on just the day before and came on again later the same day, me new mechanic did not believe it. I swear I’ll have the light on, get out of my car and sometime later that day when I turn the car on the light will be gone. It never stays on for a full day which makes taking it in for diagnostics a pain because they say “come back when the light is on” and I can never seem to manage it. And there’s no performance issues when the light is on. At least nothing that coincides with the light. There’s this odd noise in the back (mechanics have thought it was something rolling in my trunk until I told them "No, THAT’s the noise I was talking about) but none of them can find the problem. Sometimes the light will come on just seconds after the noise but not always. They’ll all say it sounds like a suspension problem but then they’ll check and find nothing wrong with it. Ideas anyone? Oh and my car also occasionally has problems starting in the morning. Like it’ll start and then stall a bit. I’ve been told its the coolant temp sensor since the problem goes away when the car warms up. Same thing happened back in April, finally diagnosed it when the weather was warming up so I didn’t bother to fix it, now its back just in time for the first rain of the season. Like clockwork.
That CEL (check engine light) is just a kid in class waving her hand trying to get you attention because she has the answer. You need to have the codes read. Some places will read them for FREE. Try Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. Get the exact code (like P0123) not just their translation into English and post it back here.
The noise you talk about might be from a solenoid back near the fuel tank that is used for the fuel system. There may be an intermittent problem with it. Knowing what the error code number is should provide a clue to what is causing the trouble.
Kia Says That Some Model-Year 2004 Kia Rios, Built Between 10/01/03 And 06/30/04, " . . . may experience a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) condition with Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0101. " That’s most of the 2004 model-year.
The CEL could be sending a false alarm. P0101 is supposed to indicate a " Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem" . Apparently, the ECM needs to be reprogrammed on cars with this problem. Revised software was sent to dealers.
common sense answer: When I bought it at 30,000 miles I took it in for the courtesy recall fix. I’ll get the codes from the shop again. I wrote it down at one point. It was a PO4 something, not a P0101, I know that for sure.
common sense answer: I didn’t find the information you posted about the MIL. I had these recall items fixed. Is this what you’re talking about? Doesn’t sound like it. Where did you get your information?
It’s Not A Recall Or Courtesy Recall. It’s A Kia TSB (Technical Service Bulletin), Special Instructions Written By Kia For Kia Technicians. The 9 Page Bulletin Is # KT2005022359.
These bulletins are usually performed on cars of complaining owners as part of the original warranty coverage and are ususally the customer’s responsibility after that.
It’s hard to say whether or not your car triggers this particular DTC (P0101) when the MIL is on. Also, it’s impossible to say whether your ECM was upgraded already, without service records or perhaps finding a sticker on the car. I don’t know if a Kia dealer can access service records for this car.
Maybe you can arrange to discuss your car with a Kia dealer Service Manager. She/He should have access to the TSB, too.