I recently bought a 2019 Camry that was sold to me as certified, but went to get papers stating it was certified and it wasn’t. I’ve had it for 3 weeks and it’s already needed a wheel bearing replaced and I’m assuming more with the issue I still have. At highway speeds, there is a pulsing shake that I feel in the floorboards. It will ride smooth for 10 seconds, then begin to shake, then goes back to riding smooth. I’ve had it at the service department 3 times (once for initial inspection of issue, then to replace the bearing, and then took it back because the shaking was still there but “no issue could be found or replicated”). In addition, at higher speeds, I hear faint clicking noises that slightly sound like a CV Joint, but I’m unsure. Any idea as to what is causing this? My suspicion would be the passenger side wheel bearing (replaced the driver side) but I’ve driven vehicles with bad bearings and the sensation is different. Bad axle/joint? Any other thoughts on this? Where I live, if the issue isn’t resolved the next time it is taken into the shop, then I’ll file lemon law because I have grounds. Thanks for any replies, I appreciate it.
First off, you call the car new but it’s a used car. You have not stated how many miles are on it. Lemon laws only apply to new cars. How far you can go on this depends upon what the paperwork says and that would include any “AS IS” forms.
The coming and going shaking problem could be related to a wheel balance problem. Sometimes they develop an oscillation.
If one wheel bearing is bad then that makes the other suspect in my opinion.
The faint clicking could certainly be related to a faulty half shaft.
There’s a lot of unknowns here so sorry I’m not much help.
The warranty should cover that, talk to the dealer. I got a 1 year unlimited warranty with our 2017 Of course it did not cover brakes, but after 6 months and a few rumbling episodes, they replaced pads and rusted rotors on the front for $180, 1/2 off oh boy! They took me to the shop to look at them, rotors definitely bubbled on the outside. Pads went from good to mediocre in 2k miles.
I would be suspicious that this car has been in an accident, or a very bad pothole.
If you can prove the car was misrepresented as “certified,” that will also help your case. I don’t know how it works with Toyotas but here in the St. Louis area VW dealers charge an extra $1,000 to sell a car as “certified” unless you finance it through VW.
Very simple, do you have the warranty disclaimer from the window.
The Toyota “certified” warranty probably cost the dealer a few hundred dollars and the rest of the premium is supposed to cover the inspection, if they actually spent the time. Some brands require more documentation (photos) of the car’s condition before they’ll approve CPO status.
If the vehicle is still covered by the powertrain warranty, 5 years/60,000 miles then CPO doesn’t apply for the repairs. Tire vibrations are not covered by either warranty.
A few of us mentioned proof of CPO status, but the OP said they told him it wasn’t a CPO after the sale. I’m not sure where the OP should go from here. Maybe talk to the used car sales manager and explain the situation. It might also be good to have a capable mechanic at an independent shop inspect it to see what problems there are. If it was in an accident, that will be apparent.
We don’t know if this was a CPO from a Toyota Dealer, or from a generic used car dealer that told the OP it was certified.
Have you done a carfax? I’m suspecting that this vehicle may have been totaled and some junkyard slapped it back together from two vehicles. When this happens, it should have a salvage title but there are ways of trading a vehicle through several states to lose the salvage part of the title. Carfax should still have a record though.
The OP said the vehicle was initially represented as “certified” and the dealer/car lot subsequently backtracked. That should have been a red flag. I don’t know how much weight that “Oops, never mind” after the sale might carry but frankly I’m inclined to doubt it was an innocent mistake.
The time to disclose that the car does not qualify for CPO certification would be before the sales contract is written as CPO can not be redacted from the sales contract. I suspect the OP chose to follow through with the purchase knowing the car was not eligible for the CPO warranty.
I agree that it was an intentional error. My point is that us implying there is some weight to the CPO label is probably moot since it doesn’t appear to have been in writing.