I just wanted to triple check before jacking up the car and doing something stupid. I was used to dedicated jack points on my last car but this one it doesn’t specify in the manual except for the side ones where you would usually place the scissor jack.
Based of videos and images, this should be where the lower control arm connects to the sub frame, right? And is ok to jack up from there?
I have seen some jack points that if you use a floor jack you will be bending a welded seam, and the green squares are for jackstands, blow up @shadowfax pic and look at the legend for general guidance. Your model was not listed so your needs may be different.
From what I can see, the only suggested lifting points are the same as where the scissors jack goes. Behind the front wheel, in front of the rear wheel, between two notches along the seam weld under the rocker panels. I can see that’s a frustrating situation for the diy’er as when you place the floor jack there’s not room for a jackstand. If it isn’t in the owner’s manual, maybe drop by a dealership and ask them for ideas. Where you show in the photo above may be your only other option, but I’m not so keen on that position as it might distort the mount for the suspension part attached there and throw off the wheel alignment.
On my Corolla there’s a middle of the car point fore and aft where I place the floor jack, then I lift both wheels, and place a jackstand at the approved rocker panel location. That info appears in the owner’s manual. I don’t understand why it doesn’t for your vehicle, unless diy’er jacking wasn’t a designed in thing for this vehicle, only pro lifts.
I know right and on a Hyundai I figured it would be more DIY friendly.
But where that the picture is shown it connects to sub frame right? If you see the picture, I noticed to the right there is a piece of metal that goes, but I’m not sure if it’s solid metal or something like a uni body construction type of thing.
I will try tomorrow to see if I can see more under the car without lifting it. Or maybe try lifting the rear scissor jack point and see if that make the front go up a bit to.
Why not look in your owners manual to find the right jacking points. Many times these points are listed somewhere near the spare tire compartment too.
We only have a scissors lift so we don’t have the range that a lift with the swinging arms would give us.
Those pinch welds on older rusted cars can be pretty rotted too.
I made four 18 inch long 2X6s with a strip of 1X2 nailed the length of the 2X6. I spaced the 1X2s about a 1/2 inch apart.
These can be put on the lift pad and straddle the pinch weld.
As mentioned, the only jacking points listed in the manual are the one where you would use the emergency scissor jack or place a jack stand, in front/rear of each tire.
I use wood blocks cut with a notch like that, but hockey pucks would be better. OP’s problem however is that if they use the seam weld jack points for the floor jack, there’s no room left to place a jack-stand. It doesn’t do any good to lift the car with the floor jack if there’s then nowhere to place a jack-stand.
Yeah exactly this and no way I’m going under the car with just a jack,
Although I was thinking if I lift the rear pinch weld spot maybe the front will get high enough? But my side space in my garage is tight an awkward so I would much rather still find a front spot.
Are cars designed to be lifted anywhere on the pinch weld then, even though they are marked with notches only at one specific point fore and aft? If so, that’s something I learned today here at Car Talk Plaza. I’ve always thought the only structurally sound point is between the notches on the pinch weld.