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2015 Honda CR-V won’t start right away

Battery good try to start it put foot an brake push starter button nothing will not start engine does not turnover some times starts on first push of button 90% of the time 5 to 20 pushes before it turns over no rhyme or reason for it HELP

Corrosion on battery terminals? How do you know battery is good?
Since you say it won’t turn over, ie crank, might be an intermittent problem with the neutral safety switch.

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Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even

if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be

allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be

enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the

starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the

lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.

Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10

Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the negative cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.

Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.

Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!

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There’s a half dozen common reasons for no-cranks. If the easy to do stuff doesn’t work, your shop can do a couple of voltage measurements to determine what’s causing it. They’d start by measuring the voltage at both starter motor terminals during attempted cranking. If you don’t want to pay to do testing and instead want to see if you can fix it by just replacing parts, replacing both the battery and starter motor will often solve this problem.