Intermittent no crank no start with new battery and starter

Hi all,

I have an '03 Honda Odyssey that has been reluctant to start. Often, when I get in and turn the key, nothing happens. No click, I can hear the fuel pump, all the lights, dash, radio, and accessories work, but it will not crank. Once you sit there for a minute, and try to turn the key several times, it usually turns over finally, and it turns over strong and starts right up. I replaced the starter at the beginning of the year with a Rock Auto special, as well as the neutral safety switch. I suspected the battery and replaced it today-- and the battery did need replaced, but the issue remains. I’m using the original key with fob. It almost always starts-- EVENTUALLY, but my wife and kids use it and I’m worried they’re going to get stranded if the issue goes from intermittent to persistent.

I have suspected either the main relay under the steering column, and tried re-soldering it, but that didn’t help. I’ve checked all the fuses in the interior driver’s side box with a multimeter, and they’re all good. I have also suspected that it may be the starter cut relay, but for the life of me I can’t find the location of it or any other starter-related relay on any diagrams or forums for the '03. Maybe I’m just stupid, but I would love it if someone could tell me where it is.

What do y’all think? What are the odds that it’s a relay vs. a cheap starter going bad already? How should I proceed in diagnosing the issue? Or could it be the ignition switch not making good contact? How would I confirm that?

I’m about at my wits end with this thing but I don’t have money to just start throwing parts at it or pawn it off on a mechanic to deal with, and even if I did, I can’t find the dang relay location. I would love some expertise from someone who’s dealt with the second gen’s electrical systems.

Thank you!

Well, clearly it’s not the battery. Not sure on the starter. Are you sure it was the right starter for your model/year?

Personally I’d take it to a mechanic. I know it stinks to have to pay a mechanic…but I guarantee it’s a small price to pay for keeping your wife/kids happy and safe. Not to mentioned, stranded.

When the new battery and starter each went in, did the terminals at each end of the main cables get a good cleaning? Maybe some wire brushing / sanding? If you can “catch it” in the act, I’d do a voltage drop test on those main cables. Sometimes the corrosion is hidden under the insulation.

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Good ideas above. There are many possible culprits for this symptom. Ask me how I know? … lol … My pinhead diy’er thinking if I had that problem would be to measure the two voltage inputs at the starter motor during attempted cranking. Both should measure at least 10.5 volts. At that point the cause will probably be obvious; if not, let us know what you measure .

Is it possible that your resoldering job wasn’t adequate? Cold soldering is always problematic.

It’s Old School but some time with a multimeter may be your best solution.

Sorry if you already answered this and I missed it, but when it does nothing, do you have power at the signal wire at the starter trying to start it… Start there and work your way back up to the ignition switch, you might need a wiring harness to find out if any relays, fuses, neutral safety switch (or whatever they call it), security system etc are between the ignition switch and the starter… Again go to the furthest part/point (starter) and work your way up the line…

If you have proper B+ at the starter and signal voltage at the starter, then it is either a corrosion issue, bad ground or defective starter…