Yes, but if the key-in-ignition switch is malfunctioning, making it appear that the key is still in the ignition, the body computer will not allow the doors to lock with the remote.
That is why I feel that you are being misguided in placing the focus in repairing the remote. If the key-in warning chime continues after removing the key from the ignition lock that is where the problem is.
This poor woman is being led in circles about a remote that has nothing to do with her problem. You can explain the issue for people but you canāt understand it for them.
The switch that detects if the key is in the ignition is attached to the ignition lock housing, it is not part of the ignition switch. You insert the key into the ignition lock, the ignition switch is connected to the ignition lock but it is a separate part.
Iām going back over this and it suddenly occurred to me that I had this same issue with my 97 Nissan Pick Up. In my case it was simple, the lock mechanism had worn out to the point that the key would come out before the key was all the way into the lock/off position. I had a habit of tugging on the key as I turned it to off so as soon as it cleared the spot where it would come out, out it came.
I had to change my habit to turn the key ALL the way to off before removing it. As soon as I figured that out, I didnāt have a problem anymore so I never did anything else to fix it.
BTW, it wasnāt much between where the key would slip out but the lock was not all the way to off, maybe a degree or so of turn.
I can remove the key from my truck with not only the radio working, but the engine running, so I must be doing the same thing. I see it as a benefit, if I start the engine and remember I need to do something something with the key chain I donāt have to turn the engine off. Iāve partially drained the battery on my Corolla doing the same thing. On the Corolla I canāt keep the engine running, but I can leave it in ACC position and still remove the key.