Hello,
I would greatly appreciate help understanding all the needed parts when replacing ignition coils on a honda fit 2007.
My understanding is it is best to replace all 4 (are there 4 total?) as well as the spark plugs - also 4?
What other parts are needed, does this car require spark plug wires?
Basically if anyone would have a few moments to list all recommended parts that would be wonderful. Would this be a good time to replace air filters as well? Car has 116K miles.
Each coil is individual. A Fit has only a 4 cylinder so it has 4 coils, 4 spark plugs and NO plug wires. You don’t have to replace all at once. If one failed at 116K, the others may not be far behind but they are about $52 apiece for original-Honda-supplier Denso parts. They are easy to replace (low labor) and I’d replace the plugs at the same type with the EXACT same sparkplug.
I HOPE you’ve replaced the air filter at least twice in that 116K mile… But if it has 30K miles or more, I’d replace it.
To be really clear, there are wires that go to the coil packs, but they aren’t the high voltage wires older cars with distributors used to use. It’s rare to need to replace these unless they’ve been damaged.
@jules76 can you tell us why you think the coils need to be replaced? They’re not a maintenance item on your car, and you usually only replace them when they go bad.
Thank you. The check engine light was on, I took it to a shop and they said
one of the coils was bad. They were recommending changing all coils and
spark plugs in order to not have to do it again for a while.
So I should use the exact brand of spark plugs in the car currently?
Thank you for your replies.
No, you don’t need to replace all coil packs just because one goes bad. That’s just lining the shop’s pockets unnecessarily.
Because they recommended this unnecessary service, you might think about getting a second opinion as to what is actually wrong. It could save you a few hundred bucks.
You can verify the coil is bad without buying any parts.
First, swap the coil of the misfiring cylinder with one of the good ones.
If the misfire moves to the other cylinder it proves the coil is bad.
If the misfire doesn’t move then the problem is something else.
Next you can swap spark plugs in the same way.
The appearance of the plugs can also tell a story.
Fuel injectors can also be swapped, but that’s a more involved procedure.
Next suspect would be a burned valve. A compression test can show that.
I don’t disagree with anyone but I would be very cautious about letting the engine continue to misfire while you test the coils. I had a misfire in my Pontiac and it only took about 15 minutes before I ruined the $700 cat. I understand it was a major misfire due to my own incompetence, but still didn’t take long. If they didn’t tell you which coil and you can’t test them with a meter, I’d just be inclined to spend the extra $150 to replace them all and be done with it.
Find out which coil is allegedly bad. You can get a free reading of the error codes at many auto parts stores. The code should be P030x, with x being the number of the cylinder that is misfiring.
As noted, there are a number of possible causes for a cylinder misfire. No way would I replace all the coils. They are not routine maintenance items, and they can outlast the car - or fail tomorrow. You can gamble and replace the one suspect coil, but realize it may not fix the problem. It’s a simple DIY job.
Good advice above . On most vehicles , when you raise the hood there are stickers that tell different things about your vehicle . One of those things is what spark plug is correct for your engine . If you are still on the original plugs , I’d install new ones .
No offense, but almost all of the bad coils I’ve replaced ohmed out perfectly. Even though they were obviously causing a misfire. In some cases, they would fail when hot, but would ohm out perfectly. In other cases, they were actually physically cracked, but for kicks and giggles, I ohmed them out, and they were “perfect”
This may sound crazy, but I sometimes think that certain electrical tests are not very useful. Clearly, it depends on the circumstances.
I have seen it happen too many times, where a guy replaces one bad coil, clears the code, drives the car, then when he comes back, the engine is shaking. Now he’s got another misfire, different cylinder, and one of the other old, remaining coils has failed. And he looks like an idiot, in the customer’s eyes, because he initially only sold 1 coil. Looks like poor diagnosis, or incomplete diagnosis. Depends how you want to word it
If it is just the coils and plugs the cost is pretty minimal compared to
the almost $600 quote i received from the shop.
Beyond the check engine light which is now no longer on by the way (should
I be worried?) the car feels like it’s going to stall when Iam stopped at a
light.I doesn’t stall yet but feelslike it. Would that be the coil?
Our '07 Fit needed the #4 coil pack replaced at 99,777 miles. Our dealer replaced all the spark plugs while they were there. So yes, you can have them replaced individually. We have about 108,000 miles on it now with no other ignition issues.
With great and sincere respect to Mustangman, I’d replace all four. They’re all nine years old, and coils in a given engine tend to have very consistent lifespans. The way coils are manufactured is extremely consistent, as are the materials that go into them.
I am no expert but feel better changing all four and being done with it. So
air filter recommended as well probably since it is certainly more than 30k
miles old
It won’t break the bank to do all coils, and you’ll sleep well, knowing you’ve got 4 fresh coils, and it’s unlikely you’ll be doing that repair again in the near future
Thank you for all the input. We ended up changing all 4 coils and spark
plugs. One coil was misfiring and all spark plugs were loose. Changed air
filters as well.
Now can anyone help me find the radio code for my car? Honda Fit 2007? I
needed it a while back when I changed the battery but no idea how I got it.
For some reason I thought we had the code with our owners manual and other documents when we bought it, but that’s been a while–might’ve been dealer supplied. But check that site.
Ninja edit - from the URL I supplied: “The Radio/Navigation Code and the device unit’s serial number are listed on the anti-theft ID card that comes with the vehicle. The card is usually placed in the glove box at the time of delivery.”