2000 4WD Silverado 2500
Every winter I put ~7 sand tubes in the truck bed for rear wheel stability/traction. The problem is keeping the tubes between the wheel wells since they want to slide forward after a bit. I had built a 1x6 wood frame that sat between the tubes and cab end of the bed but just filled with all sorts of crap over a short time.
Any cheap and easy ideas?
Mark
Put the sand tubes in the bed, and then put the frame upside down on top of them.
When I had my pickup (I had pickups for 24 years) I built a frame out of 2X4s to the dimensions that had one fore of the wheel wells inside the bed, one aft of the wells and two longitudinally snug inside the insides of the wells and wedged between the front of the bed and the tailgate. I secured it and it could not (because of the fit) move forward, aft, or sideways. It had a board floor and was dimensioned to accept 2X8X16 concrete patio blocks. I then laid two layers of the patio blocks and put a âlidâ on it with decking screws. It took some work to design and build, but it worked great for years on end.
That ensured that the âsystemâ was well secured in the event of an accident (none of the blocks or the parts could move within the bed), and gave me a slightly higher floor so I could use the bed normally. In addition, I could put lots of weight in, adjust the weight, and at the end of the season I could simply unscrew the lid and remove the concrete blocks one-by-one then remove the framework.
I also carry Gatorade bottles full of dry sand. Sand that can become wet exacerbate rotting greatly. The Gatorade bottles prevent this, as well as being great for spreading the sand when needed.
Whatever you do, be sure the weight you put in is well secured. Things like concrete blocks can become deadly projectiles in an accident.
I had a rabbit track cover on my 2wd pickup truck. when there was a snow I opened up the cover and filled the bed with snow from the snowblower, Plenty of traction and the snow would go away by itself after the storm.
Not for âmyâ frame. The frame was a squared off âUâ. The bottom of the U pressed against the tubes at the wheel well and the two legs of the U ran to the cab end of the bed. Remembering better, I had a third leg in the middle of the U as a stiffener.
They sell this tape at the home improvement stores. Itâs sold in various widths. Itâs primary purpose is to stop stair treads from being slippery when wet. By a roll, stick lengths of it to the bed and then place the sand tubes over them. They wonât slide anymore and it does not add structure that traps undesirable âstuffââŠ
That my man is an excellent idea. The only potential problem will be âwetâ. The tape is likely just for indoor use. However, if it goes down on a dry bed, then the tubes and gets a few days to set itâll likely stay put.
Thanks,
Mark
I used it for outside steps. I bought some for my mudroom entrance because the PVC tread boards were wicked slippery when wet. They stayed stuck there for a few years before I switched the PVC for a different composite lumber to better match the other decking around the house. Let me go look, think it was a 3M productâŠ
Yep, indoor/outdoor:
3M Safety-Walk Slip-Resistant Tapes and Treads are designed to provide traction on slippery surfaces where potential slips and falls can occur or where safety may be a concern. 3M Safety-Walk Tread has proven durability for long life in heavy traffic areas, as well as ladders, steps and ramps. Quick and easy to use, 3M Safety-Walk Tread is a great choice in anti-slip protection.
Helps create a safer environment for walking, working, stepping and standing
Resistant to abrasion
Self-adhesive backing for quick and easy application
Adhere to clean, dry surfaces
Helps meet OSHA and ADA coefficient of friction requirements
Wonât wrinkle, curl, tear, shrink or lift
For indoor and outdoor use
Easy to cut for a custom fit
In prep for the 3M tape (got the wide one since the bed liner has ribs and must catch at least two ribs each strip for good bond), realized why the âwaterâ in part of the bed hadnât evaporatedâspilled motor oil. 409 left a lot of oil film. Searches recommend Dawn which I canât believe.
Recommdations for a truly efficient Home Depot/Walmart âgrease breakerâ assuming same exists?
Mark
Instead of going to buy a grease breaker why not try the Dawn and if it works you can use around the house for other cleaning.
Yes, get rid of the âall sort of crapâ and use the 1x6 wood frame.
Dawn it is.
I asked a guy at the gym yesterday who is retired from Exxon. He said that Dawn is precisely what the spill mediation folks use to clean oil soaked birds.
Mark
I have used tube sand too for many yearsâŠgreat idea. The safest thing to use ! Just a couple of thoughts. I would never put anything in the bed other then the tube sand.If you have tie downs, I have wrapped line around the tubes and tied them in place. On years I get lazy, I stack them forward behind the cab. Though not ideal, I notice very little difference. Itâs really not that far from the axle. Putting anything in the middle limits my ability to load other gear and I would not like wood pieces flying around in an accident. .
The tubes are in 2 layers between the wheel wells. The bottom row sits on the 3M tape and stays put. The top layer will move. Once further into winter the 2 layers will freeze together. However, I need a solution for the next month or two.
I see 2 options:
Buy another roll of the 3M tape and apply to the top of the bottom layerâthe top layer will then stay put for sure ($27)
Position the top layer correctly then run Gorilla tape in an X across the top row thinking that that will lock the row as a unit. The downsideâif the idea doesnât work and the top row can rack and move I may tear the tube casing removing the super sticky Gorilla tape. The upsideâI have the tape therefore no cost.
?
Mark
Go to the hardware store and buy nylon tie down straps. Put at least two around the sand bags and use four to truck tie down hooks and the straps around sand bags. It will make easy removal if necessary.
If you mean the ratchet type thatâs a really good idea.
Frankly, I think 1 around both layers is all thatâs needed to make the layers act as a unit. Also, attaching to the tie down hooks wonât be necessary given the excellent traction of the base layer to the 3M tread tape.
They need to be secured to the tie down hooks so they donât become lethal flying projectiles in case of accident.
Ah, right.
I didnât realize you planned on two layers. Yes, just affixing them together as a unit should keep them put until they freeze together. Glad to hear the tape worked for you. Just curious, how much ballast do you have with all the sand tubes?
About 600 lbs. The truck is 3/4 ton so I figured Iâd need at least that amount to give the springs a decent load. After several days of driving the load âfeelsâ right.