Do you have a fuel pressure tester? Does your engine even have a test port on the fuel rail?
Have you verified that you have spark?
Do you have the ability to perform a compression test . . . this test alone will answer many questions
Do you have a spark tester . . . any decent parts store should have one in stock for a very cheap price
Another thing you could do . . . measure the crank sensor resistance. I don’t know the specs for yours, but 600 - 1200 ohms is a typical value for many sensors. If yours measures 2 megaohms, for example, it is HIGHLY likely the sensor is faulty
The crank sensor has to work for everything else to work. I concur w/ the advice above to focus on that first. The other problems may solve themselves once that is resolved.
Even before you do that though, I’d suggest to do some basic diagnosis & stuff if that hasn’t already been done, esp cleaning the battery connections and tightening the battery cables and measuring the battery voltage both at the posts and at the cables when this problem is occurring. That might turn up a clue or two.
Its hard to advise in this situation… You really do need to have a proper understanding of the systems under your hood. I think we will only confuse you…
But here is a little flow chart mentality for you…
You need Fuel and fuel pressure obviously…
You need spark…
You need compression.
Now…most F/I engines operate thusly…
The crankshaft sensor…controls the ignition/spark pulse
The camshaft sensor/s control the fuel injector pulse
Getting an engine running sometimes isnt about adding something…its about whats missing.
Engine mfgs get creative sometimes as to where the sensors live…and they arent always blatantly obvious. Such as the crank sensor…can live on the front main pulley/ Behind that pulley / and even on the back side on the flywheel or trans…but it always lives somewhere on the crank rotating assy…doesn’t have to be on the front pulley proper…get me ?
Most modern engines use a cam sensor…right on or in line w the cams…so they dont get confusing… Just the crankshaft gets a little creative…but not if you think about what it is trying to measure…its measuring where that crankshaft is within 360 degrees of rotation. Same goes for the cam sensor.
Without any of these sensors input…you will not have the ingredients to run the engine.
Hope this helps…just trying to lend you the mentality of what needs to take place.
Yeah… @JonasSweden you would be shocked at how often the fellas here dont get so much as a “Thank you” sometimes… I think a few people even wanted their money back! This forum is a bit different than others in that there are people here who actually know what they are talking about whether they be Auto Mechanics or just very handy DIY’ers…you would be shocked to hear some of these guys backgrounds on top of their car knowledge to boot ! The Well of Knowledge is DEEP here my friend.
In addition to my above “flow chart” I forgot to mention that once you locate the ingredient you are missing… Be that Spark or Fuel…you can then focus your attention to particular sensors and parts… However…and this is important… those ingredients are all a result of the engine being “Timed” properly. Meaning the Timing Belt needs to be doing its job…and cannot have slipped or jumped “Time”…everything basically depends on this scenario… Nothing will behave correctly and the sensors wont detect what they are meant to sense…at the right time…and may appear to be faulty as a result…so Timing is the foundation for basically everything. You dont always need to suspect this…but it needs to be in your thoughts. I check engine timing very often as a matter of course so that I don’t waste a ton of time chasing things that need not be chased.
Since i am “sort of” experienced…I know when to suspect the engine timing to be off… Missing one of the primary ingredients for a running engine often times leads me to do a quick check to see that the engine is Timed correctly…after I know this is OK… I can then focus on simple parts or sensors…but Timing is a majorly important thing… Hope that helps your “Flow Chart Mentality”
Not easy for folks as me that have no prior mechanical knowledge about cars.
They are complex and seems to me that the only way to gain such knowledge is thru years of learning by doing.
So, good that people as I can access that knowledge without braking the bank.
Thanks for all your help.
About my car: It´s out of my hands now
My friend is a teacher at a high school for mechanics and I left the car in their hands today. Will be interesting to hear what they find. I mentioned the things you have given advice about and he thought that they were very likely reasons for the engine not starting.
They start looking for the fault on friday.
I will post their results when they show up.
They have been looking for the fault all morning now. They have been back and forth with Peugeot on the phone aswell.
Their conclusion so far:
As said so many times here: The crankshaft sensor.
But it does not give out a fault code for this anymore. Since I cleared the fault codes it does not give out fault code P0336 anymore. Though this is still a probable soluton.
And the other probable sollution is that the computer that controls the fuel system broke down.
The relay for the fuel pump is built in with the control unit.
This is the conclusion due to:
Power comes into the computer but no power comes out of it. There is no power into the fuel pump.
The ecu cannot throw a crank sensor code when it is down…it doesnt test the sensor thata way… When running it will notice a fault…and then after that…where you are now…it wont be able to tell you the sensor is at fault. The vehicle already gave up its clues when it was able… So use them…crank sensor is relatively easy and is a good place to start.
You can also do a resistance test on the actual sensor…I believe it is nothing more than a “Hall Effect” sensor, but I could be wrong bout its design. Use the clues the ecu gave you when it gave them to you…start at the top of the list as the others will be “cascade effect” codes
Your friend is correct…they are hard to test…the ecu is probably fine… It gave you all the info it could WHILE the engine was running… The ecu cannot generate a list of fault codes while the engine is unable to run…it doesnt work that way.
If the crank sensor went bad…which was one of your codes…the engine wont be able to run and the ecu wont be able to monitor all of its sensors n systems. It can only tell you whats wrong with the engine when it is functioning or degraded.
FYI . . . the last several crankshaft position sensors I replaced produced absolutely no fault codes, at any times, yet they were responsible for the stalling and/or no-start problems
Here’s what you can do AFTER you replace the sensor
Set up your multimeter to read resistance
Hook up the leads to the sensor
submerge the sensor in a pot of water
Put the water on the stove and slowly heat it
Really bad sensors will very quickly read infinity or several megaohms of resistance within a few seconds, but the water is still cold
If you do this, please tell us the readings
On many/most cars, when you replace a crankshaft position sensor, you’re supposed to relearn it with a factory-level scan tool, but you probably can get away with not doing this. This is to a large degree because of misfire monitoring. In a few instances, I’ve seen bogus misfires being registered, because this procedure was not performed after replacing a sensor, but it’s fairly uncommon
I’m trying to imagine what that is testing for @db4690 … Hall effect devices have at least three terminals, one is its power source, the second is ground, and the third is an output, a voltage which varies depending on how close it is to the magnet attached to the flywheel, right? i.e. when the magnet rotates by the sensor, the Hall effect crank position sensor outputs a blip of voltage, which the ECM reads.
That is really only testing to CONFIRM that the sensor is faulty, without a shadow of a doubt
Many service manuals will give you a resistance spec for sensors. As I said, roughly 600 to 1200 ohms is a typical value for many cars
If your sensor reads several megaohms, it’s 99.99% certain all is NOT well, even if the car is starting
On many of those cars that I mentioned with a bad sensor, and NO code whatsoever, the resistance reading was through the roof. And the cars were very unreliable. Would either not start, or would stall while driving. Sometimes, it would SEEM to be fine for a few days, but ultimately the sensor was the cause
Read “A case example” in this article. The article is a little older, but there’s some interesting stuff in there.
In this article, the same guy mentions a few different types of crankshaft position sensors.
You seem to assume OP’s car has a hall-effect sensor. I’m making no such assumption.
Can somebody tell me where OP said he had a hall-effect crankshaft position sensor? Maybe he did mention it, and I forgot
Only place where I got actual advice.
Only place where I got actual advice. "